Author: One Road One World

  •              More info about us, journey, road and our plan :

                                                   FERRY&GULCIN

         

  • Motorcycle road trip | What spare parts to carry

    Motorcycle road trip | What spare parts to carry

    We are on a motorcycle road trip to travel around the World. When we where preparing our motorcycle long distance trip we had a few questions in our mind one of them was what spare parts to carry with us during such a long road trip for our motorcycle.

    When you decide to go on a road trip by motorcycle in Europe, USA or Australia you don’t need to think so much about what spare parts to carry on motorcycle to repair or for your routine control. But if you are in the nature and your motorcycle breaks down there is an option your phone is not working. At those moments small spare parts or tools can make your life very easy.

    Also it can be more difficult to find spare parts of motorcycles in some countries. Believe us we have a lot of experience about it on our Africa trip, which was travel around Africa by motorcycle for two years, 50.000 km and 33 countries. Yes it was  a long distance motorcycle road trip to Africa.

    After all our experience on the road we can tell a lot about it so our advice will be to carry some parts with you on the road. We made a list what we carried or learned to carry (the hard way) with us.

    What spare parts to carry with you on motorcycle for long distance trip?

    • Inner tube
    • Fork seals
    • Wheel bearings
    • Valve (extra for your inner tube)
    • Oil filter
    • Chain
    • Set of sprockets
    • Clutch cable
    • Spark plug
    • Fuses
    • Break pads
    • Clutch pedal
    • Fuel pump
    Motorcycle spare part oil filter change

    These are mostly small parts and easy to carry, of course it depends on how long your trip will be. For example you can only carry a front inner tube as they can fit (for a while) in your rear wheel as well.

    If you are visiting our website first time you don’t know which kind of motorcycle we choose for word trip and why? Both of us have been riding Honda CRF 250 L. When we started our motorcycle world trip I had no experience to ride motorcycle. She had a little motorcycle experience from 10 years ago but only how to ride motorcycle on a tar road.

    Not many people travel long distance trip with 250 cc motorcycle therefore it wasn’t easy to learn what spare parts to carry with us specific for our Honda CRF 250L. After write some blogs and friends who travel some part of Africa by motorcycle we learned and decided what to do.

    Doing maintenance on our motorcycle in Tanzania

    What spare parts to carry for a Honda CRF 250L on a motorcycle road trip?

    We wanted to travel around Africa. (West, South and East) So, we checked how many km we were going to ride in Africa. After a rough calculation we came to 40.000 km. We checked the technical book of Honda CRF 250L what is the routine maintenance. After that we took spare parts what is writing on the list.

    • Two extra chains and a pair of chain sprockets for each motorcycles.
    • Two rear break pads.
    • Six oil filters.
    • Two air filters.
    • Two spark plugs (iridium).
    • Extra two front lamp (not necessary to carry).
    • Extra fuses
    • One pair extra inner tube.
    Motorcycle spare parts air filter change on the road

    Unfortunately, it wasn’t enough what spare parts we carried for our Honda CRF 250L. Because in Nigeria, we didn’t know that a truck pushed me from the road and I entered a deep pothole. After that I had a problem with one of the fork seals, we ended waiting for it two weeks in Lagos, Nigeria it needed to come from South Africa.

    Also, we didn’t know that we could have fuel quality problem in Sudan and our motorcycles could stop after buy petrol because of a fuel pump problem. We didn’t have a new fuel pump, luckily we could just clean it but it didn’t work well we changed them as soon as we had one. Fuel pump was okay but we stuck a while in Khartoum, Sudan.

    You might think you are able to find most parts somewhere and sure you can for some of them in bigger cities, but do you want to wait 2 days in the middle of nowhere for a inner tube while you can carry 1 with you as well? We don’t want to either, I broke my valve in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC) in the middle of a village believe me I was very happy I could just put in a new one.

    Flat tire in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC)

    This crew surrounded us in just a few minutes of time, in 20 minutes we had a hundred people around us (all very friendly).

    Broken valve Ultra heavy duty inner tube in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC)

    Another story is about our clutch pad problem. When we arrived in South Africa our Honda CRF 250L motorcycles were already 48.000 km. So, we knew that it can be problem with our clutch pad soon because we already ride 50.000 km on our motorcycle road trip. They have a Honda motorcycle service in South Africa but spare parts were really expensive, much more than in Turkey, nearly 50% more. Now we got lucky as her father was going to visit us in South Africa therefore he carried 2 sets clutch pads for us. 🙂 Her Honda CRF 250L’ s clutch pad we changed in Tanzania at 58.000 km, mine we changed in Ethiopia when my motorcycle made 65.000 km. We really don’t like to change parts when it’s not necessary so we just carry them with us if that’s possible.

    Changing clutch pads Honda CRF 250L in Ethiopia

     

    You can also check what spare part to change and which kind of maintenance we did in 70.000 km for our Honda CRF 250cc.

    What we have been learning on the road we always like to share. You can find playlist to watch from our maintenance here :

    FS

  • Travel Around The World | Unexpected Breast Cancer 

    Travel Around The World | Unexpected Breast Cancer 

    We have started to travel around the world by motorcycle on July 2016, we didn’t know that we could have a news middle of our journey which is  unexpected Breast Cancer.  When we were in Africa I had a smuggled passenger inside me, who was false-hearted getting bigger day by day.

    Cape2Cape
    We made it! CAPETOCAPE

    Life of journey: Travel around the world by motorcycle

    We made almost 70.000 km in two years and visited 55 countries, 21 in Europe and 34 in Africa. We just met before the journey and we were so exciting to have a drivers license, buy motorcycle and start our journey of life, which is learn to ride motorcycle and fun, discover the world with your own eyes, try to understand life much more on the road. So we were running everywhere to get ready in a short period for travel around the world by motorcycle.

    We were ready in 3 months and we hit the road, no real planning just go. First journey was Europe to have a little experience how to ride motorcycle but also how to live in a tent before turning around Africa. I was just coming 40 years old and totally a healthy person.  After 4 months in Europe we jumped to the Africa continent. We were in Africa almost 20 months, our journey started in Morocco and end in Sudan. It was a dream to turn around Africa by motorcycle and we did it. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter Egypt because of some politic issue between Turkey and Egypt. He is from Holland and I am from Turkey. So we had only one option to get out of Africa, which was to air fright our motorcycles from Sudan to Turkey.

    The motorcycle are ready for custom service officer to check plate and number from it

    When we were saying goodbye to the African continent we were already making a plan how we will keep continue to our journey and what is next. We were agreed to travel a little in Turkey and visit my family after that ride to the Balkans and than ship the motorcycles to the USA. Of course, we didn’t know which kind of surprise was waiting for us and would have changed everything in a second.

    Motorcycle Riding Gears: Dane Clothing (Danish Clothing Brand)

    Smuggled Passenger: A tumor – Breast Cancer

    When I was leaving from my country I was just before 40 and totally healthy. I don’t go to hospital that much and don’t use medicines as well, just some normal controls. I have some basic genetic problems. Which could be pass from my family to me but nothing for cancer. Of course, I knew about breast cancer and the possibility that every 1 to 8 women can get it. Therefore I was doing monthly controls on the journey but nothing!  The tumor was with me almost all our Africa journey but I couldn’t feel nothing or see anything different. So, we were totally healthy and having fun anytime.

    All our breast cancer story video :

    When we were going to Turkey I was thinking to check-up first even if I am not feeling sick, it was the same for him as well.  Did I do? NO! We flight to Holland to visit his family. Did he go to any hospital? NO! Because we are healthy…

    But I felt a little cyst in Holland. Definitely the first thing in Turkey to checked, no excuses.  Yes, I went to hospital after arrived to Turkey in week. When I visited the doctor, who was thinking it is just cyst and looked like nothing a problem but I must go to mammography because every women needs to control after 40 years. No problem because I was fine.

    Nightmare has started. They called us next day from mammography and took me ultrasound so fast. Unfortunately they were thinking about malign, means cancer tumor, I must see the doctor again and go to MRI. We were surprised because I didn’t have any signs from breast cancer. MRI came with the same results. I was just lucky because what I found on my breast was nothing. The tumor was another point and was so deep to find with hand control. Maybe, the cyst never show up I could wait to go mammography a couple of months.

    Still, they were saying smaller than 2 cm and only one tumor, nothing divide yet so nothing on lymph nodes. This is really good news. We must learn more about the tumor therefore I went to biopsy. After a week they told us it is triple positive and half aggressive cancer tumor. We couldn’t say anything and we couldn’t talk about the word as well. “Cancer” word was too much for us. I wanted the operation as soon as possible because we wanted to continue soon to travel around the world by motorcycles, Balkans are waiting for us.  It is just basic operation, right?

    Before operation I went PET/CT to check all my body. I suppose my doctor was scare that we will run away with motorcycles after the operation. The result was clear as well. Happy time, of course.

    Female motorcycle rider, breast cancer

    It was operation day. When I opened my eyes I got the news; The tumor was more than 2 cm and my 2 lymph nodes has involved as well. Therefore the doctor took my lymph nodes under the shoulder. They were telling me to do some exercise later to open my arm again well also I must be so careful all my life with my arm to infection, any bite and lymph edema. I was just in shock and had nothing to say. But We were still smiling because cry never ever help…

    We were waiting again second pathology results because this time we need 15 days. I was on the motorcycle again in 3 weeks after the operation. It was an amazing feeling to ride again and felt so much freedom. I know that I must be so careful with my arm but so much powerful thing to be on and show yourself. If you want you can do it.

    stage 2 B breast cancer experience
    After breast and lymph nodes operation first ride 🙂

    Unfortunately, we didn’t want to accept but we knew that chemotherapy treatment is on the road for me because they found small parts in my lymph nodes. After two weeks the doctors were telling us to my breast cancer is stage 2B, means still early breast cancer,  I need chemotherapy for my future especially if I want to be on the road, ride motorcycle and sometimes go to remote areas.

    african tribes

    Chemotherapy, radiotherapy, Herceptin therapy, etc.  all will take around a year. We just past 1,5 months (we had many problems in it that is not a subject for the article). The doctors and we are agree that if everything will go good in the next 4,5 months we can start to travel in Turkey by motorcycle also we can have short trips to Balkans and other surrounding countries as well because I need to have a injection for cancer (Herceptin) every 3 weeks and they need to be sure that I am ok.

    October is the breast cancer awareness month every year.

    We wanted to write the article because of it because breast cancer is look like so innocent if it is in a early stage. I was on the road therefore I couldn’t start to mammography when I came 40 but when I came back to my home country I didn’t go as soon as possible. I waited 7 weeks more until they find a small cyst on my breast from monthly hand control.

    Breast cancer is not genetic to find you or if you have it can grow unaware maybe you cannot understand it with your hand or see it. We want to tell: Please, go to your control, have a mammography don’t be late. Fight early and keep continue to follow your dreams and enjoy your life.

    female motorcycle rider

    We will be on the road soon and keep continue our journey of life: Travel around the world by motorcycle…

    Breast cancer cannot be a problem travel around the world by motorcycle. 🙂

    Are you curios how I fell in love with FS and all my life has changed? click to link :  HOW DID I MEET MY LOVE? 

    GS

  • Road trip Africa by motorcycle | Cost of travel

    Road trip Africa by motorcycle | Cost of travel

    Our road trip Africa by motorcycle was 563 days and we made around 50.000 km; cost of travel was 25 USD everything include pppd. We started to ride motorcycle from Morocco, we passed 33 countries and had to finish in Sudan. 🙁

    Road trip Africa by motorcycle | Cost of travel

    When we started our world trip we decided our daily budget can be max 50 USD for both of us include everything (petrol, visas, food, accommodation, shipping / airfreight, fly, etc.) but it was except to climb Kilimanjaro, Gorillas trekking and safari to road trip Africa by motorcycle. They can change our cost of travel a lot because they are expensive things to do. This are options to do and we saved money for it before out of our budget. We could do all before leave Africa, some things are a once in a lifetime. 🙂

    We divided Africa in three parts: West Africa, Southern Africa and East Africa trip by motorcycle. Southern Africa was a little hard part to keep our budget as it was wintertime so we needed some hotels sometimes and there is a lot to do and see.

    Total road trip Africa cost was 11.975 USD per person for 19 months.

    You can see on the basic photo of our calculate which part of Africa how much we spent in Africa trip.

    cost of travel / Africa

    The cost can change a lot depend on your journey what you want or how you want to travel. When we were traveling in Africa most of the time we stayed in the tent and cooked ourself.

    We did a lot of wild / bush camping or set up the tent in front of a hotel or at the car parking. Also, a lot of people invited us to their home to stay, drink coffee or for dinner. We are so much thankful to them we made good friends and they helped us to keep continue our journey. So, we didn’t pay total 211 days for accommodation we slept in people houses or bush/wild camping.

    Africa visas cost was total 1.850 USD for per person, include customer service, motorcycle traffic insurance and tax. 

    Visas price could be more if we entered more countries. We skipped some countries because they are so small and we have to pay 100 USD per person. You can find all details for African visas and border crossing .

    Fuel is cheaper than Europe, US, Australia….etc. Our motorcycles goes around 30 km on 1 liter petrol.

    Each motorcycle took 1.554 USD fuel in road trip Africa. 

    Other biggest parts were food and still hotel/camping even if we stayed 38% free of Africa trip.  We can say that we spent approx. 8 USD each person when we stayed in a motel/hotel/hostel/campsite and spent 5 USD per person for food. (not include alcohol or cigarette)

    5.500 USD was per person motel/hostel and market/food cost travel in Africa.

    cost of travel

    How much left from cost we spent for road, parking, transfer, shopping for motorcycle, sim cards, healthy…etc.  Would you like to read all details country by country to cost of travel Africa? You can look at : West Africa trip cost and Southern Africa trip cost and Eastern Africa trip cost.

    When you look to details you will see that  airfreight motorcycle and our fly ticket, stay in Ethiopian tribes, visit Dallol in Ethiopia, do wildlife safari were include the total price of spent. 🙂

    Begin of the article I wrote that our plan is spend daily 25 USD per person in world trip by motorcycle. So, we suppose to spend 14.075 USD total but we did less. It means we save money in the trip as well. 🙂

    14.075 (we have decided) – 11.975 (we spent)  = 2.100 USD  We saved money more on the West coast motorcycle trip. Of course we didn’t keep money in a save account. We climbed Kilimanjaro. We knew that we were going to save money in Kenya as well. Therefore we visited gorillas and climbed Nyrigango in Virunga Park, Congo.

    So, end of the Africa road trip we did everything what we wanted and daily cost of travel was 25 USD all-inclusive per person per day.

    GS

  • Overlanding Africa | Motorcycle trip : First county is Morocco

    Overlanding Africa | Motorcycle trip : First county is Morocco

    Overlanding Africa – motorcycle trip is starting! We have no experience to ride motorcycle but who cares we just want to live our dreams!

    We have no idea why we choose to start one of the hardest roads in the world. Our plan is turn around Africa so will ride motorcycle west, southern and east Africa. We would like to share all our overlanding Africa journey on our website; African visas – safety- border crossing and bribes, our West Africa, Southern Africa, East Africa trip, all costs, about motorcycle and camping

    Motorcycle trip

    Overlanding Africa – Motorcycle trip : 1- Morocco

    This is where we start our adventure in Africa! We arrived at Tangier Med port around 9 pm after a 28-hour boat trip from Barcelona, it’s already dark and we didn’t have a place to stay. When we booked the boat it was saying we would arrive at 3 am in the morning, we need to do customs when we arrive at the port so we thought we could go slowly through the process and start riding when the sun comes up. 🙁

    overlending africa| motorcycle trip

    Journey just started and we already have a friend

    While waiting to board in Barcelona we meet another rider Christopher from Germany, he will be traveling in Morocco for 3 weeks with his motorcycle. We didn’t book accommodation on the boat as we found it was too expensive, but lucky as where Christopher did and invited us to his room for a few hours of sleep. We leaved the boat together and find out our passports need to be stamped on board, we missed this call and need to go back. I took  her passport and go back on board with Christopher to stamp our passports and she stayed with 3 motorcycles. We went pretty smooth through customs  but took two hours.

    Morocco border crossing

    We decide to ride together to Asilah.

    There we went to a campsite, Christopher to a hotel. But our first night ‘overlandig Africa- motorcycle trip’ wasn’t in the tent because they said that sleep in the tent 4 USD in a room 5 USD. Okay, take the room because it was November and cold outside.   and we decided to meet the day after again to walk a bit around the city centre. The next day we get a bit of the taste of Morocco, we are enjoying together and making a plan what road to ride the day after to Fes on of the bigger cities in Morocco.

    overlanding Africa
    Asilah campsite, Morocco

    Next city is Fez

    We found a nice road through the mountains towards Fez and all of us were really enjoying the landscape and mountain roads. Arrived Fez and we tried to find an affordable campsite what is much harder as we expect and eventually we end up in a hotel near the city centre. We walked a bit around the maze of Fez, it was really beautiful to see but all those sellers want something from you. After Fez we decided this is the last city we are visiting in Morocco. We wanted go to the Atlas Mountains to enjoy nature and the local life.

    overlander africa
    Fez, Morocco

    Time enjoy on Atlas Mountain…

    From Fes we were heading south and passing some beautiful roads around the Atlas mountains, we were enjoying so much and looking for more challenging roads in the mountains. We found some mountain passes around Tinghir so that’s our destination. From here we crossed into the Atlas Mountains and ride with our motorcycles through the Gorges Toudra (gorges du todra), it’s all very impressive to see and with all the lovely curves it’s a true motorcycle paradise. We took a lot of breaks to enjoy all the amazing views we were seeing, I never expected this from Morocco.

    gorges du todra
    Gorges Du Todra

    But it’s amazing we ride all the way to Agoudal where we find a cheap hotel to spend the night. We didn’t try to camping because it was already degrees was below zero. We don’t think so that clever idea camping with summer gears.

    Agoudal village

    During the last hours of daylight we walked Agoudal village to have a better taste of the local life. We spent time with children and the local life. The owner of the hotel was very friendly and maked us the best tajine we ate in Morocco also he played music for us and his friends who were hanging out in the restaurant. We woke up early in the morning for breakfast. The owner warned us would have started snow when we ride. This means the village is not reachable anymore for the outside world. So we need to start riding soon as we have a long gravel road ahead of us.

    Agoudal village hotel

    We ride again through some amazing mountain passes on all the gravel roads, these were the first for me to ride and I was really enjoying. While riding we could see the weather changing and it will start to rain soon, we were not so high anymore so snow will not fall here. We arrived at one the highlights for motorcycles in Morocco the Gorges de Dades, it’s beautiful to see and even more nice to ride it. It was wet so we need to be careful but still we were enjoying a lot. After passing the Gorges de Dades we started to search for a hotel and soon we found one where we can put our motorcycles inside a garage so they could safe. There are some walking trails near the hotel to the mountains where we can visit some very old villages. December is not clever idea to ride motorcycle around Atlas mountain.

    Gorges De Dades
    Gorges De Dades

    Do you think we can ride motorcycle on desert? 🙂 Going Sahara desert.

    From here we decided that we want to go towards the desert, the biggest desert in the world the Sahara desert. We were riding through Ouarzazate to M’Hamid where the desert begins and we found a beautiful camp spot at the edge of the sandy desert and we were watching an amazing sunset, in the night we sat outside and watched an amazing sky full of stars.

    Overlanding Africa
    M’Hamid, Sahara Desert

    We wanted to try and pass some part of the desert with our motorcycles; there was a short cut to a gravel/rocky road, which will bring us to the high sand dunes of the Sahara desert. Full of courage we start our adventure the lesson is you need to keep up the gas so you can fly over the sand, this was easier to say then actually do.

    Motorcycle trip | Sahara desertShe fells of the bike a few times and I need to turn back to help her, all of this under the burning sun (around 42 degrees), after a few kilometers we decided this is not doable for us. So we returned and took a longer way around to find the gravel/rocky road to our destination. We followed the road but it leads to a dead end? I tried to ride a bit more to see if I could find another road but unfortunately I didn’t find anything. So we turned back again to follow a different road, which we could see on our map.

    We had about 200 kilometers in front of us, the road started pretty smooth we were enjoying but getting tired as we were riding already 7 hours. When we need to turn right at one point the road get worse and much more rocky so this slows down our speed a lot, also we need to pass some dry rivers with loose sand in it. Night started to fall and we were exhausted so we decided to stop and set up the tent somewhere. We didn’t see a single car for a long time and there were no houses around us so we didn’t need to hide ourselves. This has been one of the most amazing nights so far, between the mountains and the desert with literally nothing around us it was so silent and so pure. We had our own million stars our camping site :).

    Overlanding Africa
    Bush camp, Sahara

    Next morning when we woke up and took a look on the map we saw we have more than 150 km in front of us to reach Sahara desert dunes, we tried a bit more but after 30 km later we decided to turn the road was not getting better, just worse and we were tired of our brain shaking.

    Off road | motorcycle trip

    We turned our road to Atlas ocean.

    We will see a lot more of the Sahara desert in the Western Sahara and Mauritania. We ride through Foum Zguid to Tata where we found a campsite in Tata, as we were here in the mountains it gets pretty cold in the night so the owners offer us to opened our tent in the kitchen, which nobody was using so we had some shelter.

    We decided to stay for a few days as we like the city and we wanted to explore a bit around with the motorcycles. We ask around to find some nice roads and quickly we are on the motorcycles and riding in the middle of nowhere was we could make some nice photos from us with the motorcycles.

    In Tata we celebrated my birthday as well, we pick a nice road to ride, which brings us through the mountains and some very nice oases. It was a perfect day for riding and we were enjoying a lot, what a beautiful country this is.

    motorcycle trip

    After 6 days, we leaved Tata and heading towards the coastline which we will follow all the way to Mauritania. But first we were again riding through the Anti-Atlas mountains (aka Lower Atlas mountains) again this was very beautiful. We did wild camping again at some nice places if we meet someone they didn’t bother us just gave a big smile and asked if everything is fine.

    overlanding west africa

    When we arrived at the coastline we tried to find a place to spend the night around Tarfaya, there is only one campsite but they asked too much money for nothing at all so we decided to find a place ourselves and wild camp again. We followed a narrow road along the sea where they actually have small fishermen houses everywhere but in the dunes we could hide our self a little bit we thought. We found a nice place, but it was still pretty close to one of the fishermen houses so we went there and ask permission to set up our tent for one night.

    Overlanding africaThey said it’s ok and we opened the tent, we were watching a beautiful sunset and when it got dark some policemen’s arrived. They didn’t like the idea we were camping there and they wanted us to pack up and go to the campsite about 30 km back, we told them we cannot ride in the dark and we didn’t want to leave here. The policeman asked me to go with him to his post where he can call the chief and explained the situation. It seems the problem that all people living there are refugees and they cannot guarantee our safety in the night but they understand we cannot move anymore. The solution was to move next to the policemen house and spend the night there. There was a small house where nobody is right now, we opened the tent inside there and we need to cover the motorcycles. This was ok for us only this means we need to pack everything again but that’s the way it was. We had a quiet and good night. In the morning we went to the police officer his house and drunk tea with him before we leaved, another special adventure like this 🙂

    overlanding africaFrom here we are riding into the Western Sahara. For us Morocco is a true motorcycle paradise, also the food is amazing and the country is very cheap to travel in.

    Overlanding Africa | Motorcycle Trip

    FS

  • Our last country in Africa is Sudan…

    Our last country in Africa is Sudan…

    Sudan is totally different world after Ethiopia, in many ways. It is not a touristic country at all with only 10.000 people visiting in a year and most of them will probably have a background in Sudan. For us it was a country we needed to pass on our way to Egypt from where we would ship our motorcycles to Turkey.

    We did hear a lot of good stories about the people in Sudan so of course we where very curious about it, especially after Ethiopia what was so intense and where you are never alone and everyone wants something from you when you stop with the motorcycle. Well I need to say all stories where completely true, we never seen so generous people.

    We arrived in Sudan border afternoon and we left from the border at the end of the day; we already knew we would be able to wild camp again in Sudan after a long time.

    For us this is still the best way to spend the night as it gives us the feeling of freedom. We ride till the sun nearly disappeared from the sky and we found a nice spot to open the tent and see the last bit of the sunset. We prepared a meal and after that we set up the tent. In Sudan it is very hot so we decided only our inside tent was enough so the wind could keep us from sweating. Also nice is that we can see everything outside without opening any zips. We slept like babies and woke up with daylight at 5 am, after a fast breakfast we hit the road again. In Sudan we need to ride early in the day and late afternoon, at the moment the temperature was getting up to 48 degrees and no clouds for any shadow on the road.

    No petrol! And our motorcycles broke down in Al-Qadarif 🙁

    We had 100 km to the first city is called Al-Qadarif; here we needed to look for petrol. The petrol in Sudan is very cheap 0,18 cents per liter. The only problem is that at the moment when we where there (May 2018) there was not enough petrol available. We passed several gas stations and asked for petrol, 1 of the wanted to sell us some for almost ten times more the price from what you pay at the pump. This was too much for us, after talking a bit more someone else came to look for petrol. They asked and drive away pretty fast, one guy (from the gas station) pointed me to the car to follow them.

    I told her get ready we needed to rush, I straightaway started the motorcycle and ride behind them. Next gas station I was behind him, no gas again. He drive away again, when a traffic light came I went next to the car and explained him we are looking for petrol as well, he looked like a bit confused but then said, ok follow us. We passed several stations without success till we came to a gas station with a cue of hundreds of cars. Wow, this petrol problem is serious!

    The car went straight to the front of the cue and talked a bit with the guy working and he filled up his car, unbelievable! He looked at us and said come, come you can get full now as well. They filled both our tanks but we needed 5 liters extra so we where able to make it to Khartoum (the capital of Sudan). He didn’t want to fill the bottle we had (we learned later this is illegal) but the entire crowd pushed him that we really needed it and he should fill our 5-liter bottle, luckily he did. Happy us, we started the engines and left the station.

    We ride 500 meters with our new petrol and all of a sudden my motorcycle refuses to go, no way I did see we got petrol, not diesel! My motorcycle dropped down once, I started it again and we ride a bit more to see if it will work normally or not? Then she told me she had the same problem; this was not good! We looked on the map and found a hotel pretty close, this was the best place to go and we could check the motorcycles what was wrong? We tried to call our mechanic friend and her brother in Turkey to see if they had a explanation for what happened to our motorcycles. They told us the same as we said to each other, it cannot be that something broke down at the same moment for two motorcycles. It needs to be the fuel, but there is no other fuel available. We learned from the locals that the quality is not good and more vehicles have the same problem.

    We decided we needed to drain the fuel, open and clean everything. The tank, spark plug, and tubes all we can find. First I tried to get both our spark plugs out, mine went normal but hers was a big fight (which I eventually lost). It was stuck and moving very hard, but it looked like it was moving so I pressed a little more and then boom my tool broke. Damn, my spark plug is out and I don’t have a tool anymore to get it back in. I took my broken tool and walked around the area, I found a local motorcycle and a few more people talking to each other. I showed my tool, and pointed to his spark plug (what was visible) and explained where mine was. They talked a bit and one guy took the broken tool and left. We couldn’t understand each other for a single word but I had the feeling I had no other option then to trust this guy could find a new one or repair the tool. I walked back to her and told her what happened, we sit down and waited. After one hour he came back with the repaired tool in his hand smiling, we both got a big smile as well and said thank you. First I did was place my spark plug back to where it belongs.

    In the mean time it got late and dark so we decided to call it a day, have dinner and go to sleep. The next morning we can test the motorcycles again and see what happens. In the morning I started both motorcycles and started riding a little bit, no problem at all… What is going on? Is the whole problem to do with the temperatures, is everything getting to hot? We decided to still work on the motorcycle and clean the tank and some of the hoses that we can. It was too late to leave now anyway because it was hottest time of the day. After cleaning everything we started the motorcycles, they run so we decided to start packing them and leave around 5 pm when it’s getting a bit cooler. We ride 5 km and the same problem came back, we stopped and talked to each other and decided lets push the motorcycles a bit further till we find a place for bush camp, it is to hot to stay in a room.

    In 20 km we find a good spot hidden from the road, we figured out the hot and the petrol must be the problem. We still had some petrol from Ethiopia as well with us what was a better quality, ok we can mix our petrol and leave with the sunrise to reach the next city and see how the motorcycles react to that.

    We woke up at 4 am and after a quick breakfast we started riding at 5 am. Of course we where a little scared for what can happen now. They both went very smooth, no problems at all to ride. We pushed ourselves to not stop so much and made the 200 km in about 3 hours.

    With all the mixing of petrol and emptying the tank we lost some fuel so we needed to buy another 5 liters to get to Khartoum, we stopped at a gas station what had a enormous cue again. I told her to go with the empty 5 liter bottle put on your best smile and hopefully he can help us. She walked to the pump but no one was getting petrol yet, she asked a military guy on a motorcycle how to get petrol and he pointed her to a men sitting in front of the station who was probably the owner of the station. She explained she needed just 5 liters to get to Khartoum and said her motorcycle is on the road, luckily he fell for the smile and give us 5 liters of petrol. Ok, that problem is fixed. 🙂

    We had no option to ride, must stop Al Hasahisa…

    We sit down somewhere to have a coffee and talked what we should do? Stay here or see if we can push ourselves another 200 km to Khartoum? We decided to go to Khartoum; there we could get rest. We just left the city and the problem started again 🙁 probably it’s to hot again for the motorcycles.

    We stopped at the next village, which is called Al Hasahisa at a coffee place it was now 10 am. While drinking our coffee and eating our lunch we were talking what could we do next? We could not sit all day this small place because if we want to ride again we must wait around 6 pm to the weather and our motorcycles tank also engine really cool down. Suddenly, one man came to me and asked where we are from and do we have any problem on motorcycles? After explain what is going on he asked if we want to come to his house to rest a little bit and take a shower. I didn’t think twice and said yes straight away.

    We followed Mamdouh to his house and met with his family, they brought us juice a bed and showed where the shower was. During the day we got relaxed and played a little bit with his 2 daughters, when he came back from work we ate dinner together. Then Mamdouh said to me we should stay the night with him and his family as well, we said ok and decided we can sleep here and leave early in the morning. Khartoum was 150 km away if we leave early we hopefully could make it without any problems.

    After a good night rest, we said bye to Mamdouh and his family. For us this is an unbelievable thing to just open your house for 2 complete strangers who stop in the city you live on 2 motorcycles. This is Sudan, the country with amazing hospitality from the people.

    Finally we arrived Khartoum but with tear on her eyes 🙁

    We started riding and everything went pretty smooth till we reached Khartoum, this is the capital and biggest city so that means a lot of traffic, which is not good for our motorcycles right now. Let’s just say we had a very big fight to make to our campsite in the middle of the city. She got very emotional when we arrived, these motorcycles are our babies while we are traveling, it is not feeling good if we need to treat them like this, we are breaking them.

    After we calmed down we set up the tent and I bought a few cold drinks and we chilled out. We called Mohammed a local biker to meet in the night at the campsite to have a coffee or juice.

    After one hour our friend Theresa showed up which we met before in Addis Ababa, she is Norwegian and traveling on a bicycle. It is so nice to meet other people on this kind of moments. We talked, laughed and shared a lot of stories. In the night Mohammed came to us as well and we shared more stories, he called one of his friends Fatih (a Turkish man living in Khartoum) also a rider and big fan of motorcycles.

    Of course this was very special for him, it is not happening very often that a Turkish rider is coming to Khartoum by motorcycle and especially not a woman. We talked all night and Fatih invited us to stay at his house while we stayed in Khartoum. Unfortunately he was going on a holiday in a few days to Uganda but he allowed us to stay in his house while he was away. Of course this is a very nice opportunity for us to have some time to work on the motorcycles and solve our problems. Theresa came with us as well and we had a nice house all for ourselves. Fatih owns a car repair shop so we had a place to work and tools if we needed as well.

    In these 10 days we relaxed a bit and worked on our motorcycles, they were riding fine again but most of the time. 🙂

    Noway to get  a visa for Egypt!

    Now our next issue was a visa for Egypt to her. First time we went to the embassy they were sent us to the consult of Egypt, this is where they issue visas. We went there and they told us come back tomorrow at 10, this is the time to issue visas to foreigners. Again we went, we needed to get inside the consult to explain our situation. This seems more easy then it actually is, when we arrived and try to ask for any option to go in nobody wanted to speak English to us only Arabic, not friendly at all! After trying and trying we left and decided maybe someone can help us, a few local people told us that they can help. We made some phone calls in the night and hoped for the best to get an appointment with the consultant from Egypt. This didn’t work either, so we went back again to try it ourselves. Eventually we found with some help the right line to go for us to apply for the visa, we had all papers with us but after waiting 3 hours they simply told us for Turkish citizens there is a special procedure you need to go to the embassy itself or need to wait more than a month for visa result. We went back to the embassy again but they didn’t allow us to go inside, they were totally unfriendly and rude. They didn’t want to call anybody inside the embassy who we can talk and explain our satiation. They sent us back to the consult again and closed to the embassy door on our face.

    It is so frustrating if officials work against you, we have been trying to solve our visa issue now for 5 days without any success at all. We shared our story with some people and they agreed we need to try it in a different way. Eventually some people even called the ambassador from Egypt in Sudan and in Turkey but nobody could help us to get the visa for her.

    To be honest, we could not want to believe what was going on because we passed 33 countries in Africa and we never ever had any problem with visas before. Of course we were very disappointed as this means we cannot finish our journey in Egypt what we were planning. So, we need to ship our motorcycles out of Sudan and not going to see the pyramids in Sudan or Egypt, no diving in the red sea. 🙁 Maybe we could ride to Egypt borders and see nice pyramids in Sudan but she was so upset to run behind Egypt visa and nothing we had; also their behavior in the embassy made her so unhappy. She didn’t want to do something more because of that plus petrol issue plus motorcycles problem plus 48 degrees. 🙁

    We airfreight our motorcycles from Sudan to Turkey how we did this we explain in a very detailed article here.

    Until finish Sudan video, we would like to share our motorcycle shipping video which was fun and run 🙂

    When we left our motorcycles at the airport we got a bit relaxed and enjoyed our time with Fatih till we fly out to Turkey. We are so happy to met him. I hope we can see you somewhere again Fatih.

    We want to thank all the helpful people we met in Sudan.

    FS

  • Shipping/Airfreight motorcycles from Sudan to Europe or Turkey

    Shipping/Airfreight motorcycles from Sudan to Europe or Turkey

    How to get your motorcycle out of Sudan to Europe or Turkey, a lot of people riding the East coast of Africa and end in Sudan for multiple reasons.

    In this article we will try to explain the options you have; shipping or airfreight from Sudan how easy or difficult, what are the costs, which country you can go or cannot go to ship or use airway for motorcycles, if you use airfreight to Ataturk Airport, Istanbul, Turkey what is the procedure in Turkish customer service and Turkish Cargo service. Also you can find phone numbers who you can contact for detail and help, the GPS coordinations for all places. 🙂

    Let’s start with a little info about the countries around Sudan…

    Egypt, for Egypt you need a Carnet de Passage (CdP). A lot of people travel without a CdP as it is to expensive or they bought the motorcycle in a different country as their nationality and could not find a country to support their CdP. If you don’t have a CdP you cannot cross through Egypt. Unfortunately for us it was another problem, she couldn’t get the Egypt visa as there is some political issue between Turkey and Egypt at the moment.

    Saudi Arabia, it is nearly impossible to get a visa when you travel with a motorcycle also woman are still not allowed to ride a motorcycle in Saudi Arabia so this was not an option anyway. With a car you will be totally fine to go to Saudi Arabia as long as it is a Left hand drive (LHD), they do not except RHD vehicles. We learned from other overlanders you can get a Saudi Arabia visa in 2 or 3 days if you travel with a 4×4 car, truck or camper. For motorcycles they let you wait 30 days or more to response and then they still can refuse you for a 72 hours transit visa

    Libya, this country is simple said not safe enough to travel through in our opinion.

    Eritrea, this country is also not safe enough in our opinion to travel through.

    Here our shipping adventure video. Before continue you read you can check if you like

    What is the cheapest option to leave from Sudan by motorcycles?

    Our trip ended in Sudan because we didn’t have any option to go another country. We didn’t want to ride all the way down again to Kenya and ship the motorcycles from Mombasa. The cost could be so much to apply visas, fuel, food…etc. So, We started to look for how we can ship our motorcycles from Port Sudan with RoRo / container or find a cargo to airfreight from Khartoum, Sudan.

    We searched ship from Port Sudan to go Europe or Turkey but they didn’t have an option with RoRo, which is the cheapest way (around 400 USD) because you don’t need a container to rent or pack the motorcycle. We wrote some companies but couldn’t find any.

    Some companies said that we can have a container and ship our motorcycle but the price was so high. Small container was around 1500 USD if you don’t have anybody to share container. Also you must pack your motorcycle and pay extra for it. On the other hand all ships go to Saudi Arabia first and than some stops. It means that we can have our motorcycles in Europe or Turkey more than a month later.

    We had only one option more to fly with our motorcycles, means look for airfreight for it. Sudan doesn’t have a lot of option for direct fly or cargo to and from Europe.

    For us the best and cheapest option was to fly the motorcycles to Istanbul (Turkey). From Istanbul it’s only 200 km to the Greece border or Bulgaria border. We contacted Turkish Cargo.

    Going to talk Turkish Cargo in Sudan to airfreight Khartoum to Istanbul.

    Most cargo companies don’t work directly with a customer, they work with companies. Turkish cargo works with Maks Aviation Services. We went to Khartoum airport and found the cargo service. We meet with Adil who help us for all procedures. (If you need help to airfreight your motorcycle you can contact Adil : +249 91 234 90 73 he speaks English very well)

    Unfortunately, Turkish Cargo doesn’t fly directly to Istanbul, Turkey. They have big cargo flight every Monday. It leaves from Khartoum around 1:30 pm to Nairobi and leaves from Nairobi around 8:30 pm. It arrives Ataturk Airport at 2:30 am on Tuesday (so you have a full day to pick up your motorcycle at the airport).

    Mister Adil from Maks Aviation Services
    The price for airfreight motorcycles? To be honest it was a surprise for us!

    If you ask how much cost for a motorcycle to airfreight? It is depend on your pack size. We had two different prices for the same motorcycle because of the package size. I want to give an exam; my motorcycle pallet was 190*90*106 and it was 206 kilos after packed. Cargo weight came 302 kg.(DC) Rate was 28.5. So one motorcycle airfreight price was 302*28.5 = 8607 SDG (Sudanese pound)

    And some extra cost for the fly, which was 1.350 SDG. Turkish Cargo air way price was 9957 SDG for 1 motorcycle.

    You can quick check your cargo weight and calculate your cost easily: http://www.turkishcargo.com.tr/en/e-cargo/applications/volume-weight-convertor

    Checking all documents together with Adil
    We need another agency as well to custom service in Sudan.

    Mister Adil told us we need to worked with another agency who can do all custom service and dangerous goods paperwork. Actually, we didn’t go anywhere when we were inside the Maks Aviation Services office he came there. When you bring your motorcycles to customs you are not allowed to enter somebody official has to do all paperwork.

    He got a price for custom service 1200 SDG and 1500 SDG for dangerous good to each motorcycles. But we paid extra 500 SDG extra to each motorcycles because custom service wanted to we paid something more. They started 2000 SDG but after negotiating the price came 500 SDG. We saw the note from the custom service who wrote on the paper we have to pay.

    So we paid total 13.157 SDG to Maks Aviation Services, Turkish Cargo Agency to carry our motorcycle to Istanbul, Turkey.

    If you ask how much USD it depends on the black market rate in Sudan. We exchange 1 USD=37.50 SDG. It means 350 USD.

    Note : If you enter Sudan with your Carnet de Passage make sure that you have an exit stamp as well. When you give your CdP to the agency you should tell them to don’t forget exit stamp.

    Time to make pallet for motorcycle with Asim

    We need to find a place to pack out motorcycle the cheapest way!

    If you want to go to an agency and ask them to make a pallet and pack motorcycle for you the costs will be really so high. Already, mister Adil said that if we can do it with our self it could be so cheap. We knew a Turkish person (Asim) who has a little furniture company who help us a lot when we were in Khartoum. We called Asim and told him what we need it. If we gave the size to him he said that he could make a pallet for us in a half day because he wasn’t so busy when we were asking. 🙂

    Asim is working hard to get ready pallets 🙂

    He had some wooden in his place he made it from them so, we didn’t pay anything for it. But to make a pallet like this could cost around 2.500-4.000 SDG depend on the how much big and strong the pallet needs to be.

    We paid 700 SDG for two clamping straps to stabile the motorcycle on the pallet. Also we paid 1.000 SDG for the truck to carry our motorcycles from Asim’s place to customs at Khartoum airport.

    They are ready to go to the airport

    Asim couldn’t speak English but if you need to help you can contact with him with text message. You can write you took his number from ‘Gulcin and Ferry’. He has a worker who can speak French and when you meet him he can find a person who can speak English to help you. Asim phone number : +249 91 050 6295.

    So, Airfreight cost, packing  and transfer motorcycle to the airport price were for one motorcycle total 387 USD in Sudan.

    It was a little scary to see our motorcycle was flying 🙂

    Note: You should check your Airway bill (AWB) well. If anything wrong or missing on the AWB it can cost a lot to you in Ataturk Airport to wait and pay storage.

    Check AWB number on it,

    Shipping name is correct, which is your bill name

    Consignee name must be writing because Cargo companies make documents with the name. They forgot to write on our bill and we spend a few extra hours for it.

    Consignee phone number is correct because they will contact you in Turkey

    By the way, we transferred our motorcycle our self. So the agency help us to enter the export cargo area with them. Therefore, we could check all our documents in there if anything was missing. Also, we told with Adil after finish custom service pack our motorcycle with plastic.

    we said bye them in Khartoum airport, Sudan

    Get motorcycle from Turkish Cargo/Custom Service in Ataturk Airport, Turkey

    If you use air way the procedure is same for any flight or cargo companies in Ataturk Airport. The custom service procedure is the same for Turkish people and other nationalities. I am from Turkey and he is from Holland but we had the same procedure. If your motorcycles register write your name everything is easier and you can take your motorcycle yourself. Otherwise, maybe it is nice to look for a fixer.

    You should have three copies of your passport, motorcycle register, driver license and also the original documents with you. You must have a green card traffic insurance. I don’t know the insurance cover which countries when you have it in your own country. He is from Holland and his insurance covers Turkey as well. You should have a copy of that as well.

    First of all, you must check your air waybill number (AWB Number) to tracking. The statue must be RCF – Shipment Received from flight. http://www.turkishcargo.com.tr/en/e-cargo/cargo-tracking. After that you can call customer management to learn your AWB – Ordino is ready or not http://www.turkishcargo.com.tr/en/about-us/contact-us

    Second, you need to go Turkish Cargo office in Ataturk Airport and take your AWB – ordino. It will be cost 250 TL.

    Third, you must go to Custom Service building (Turkish: Gümrük Binası) with your AWB – Ordino paper and with a letter. You need a Turkish letter, which can be hand write.

    You need find director or assistant director (Turkish: Müdür Yardımcısı) room in the Custom Service building. (The room is second floor on the right) He will read your letter and check your original documents. He will signature your letter and writes a custom officer number on the letter.

    Fourth, go to ground floor to the Paperwork office (Turkish : Evrak Kayıt Bürosu) because they must enter your letter in the system. They want to have a copy of your AWB – Ordino and letter. You can find the copy machine outside next door in a coffee place.

    We are inside to the store. They brought our motorcycles

    Fifth, Turn back to Turkish Cargo office and go to Turkish Cargo store and find guard officer, I don’t know exactly English name. 🙁 Anyway on the door writes Turkish “ Muhafaza Memuru”. You need to give an id card (drivers license) to them and have a card to enter the storage. You don’t give your passport because you need it inside the store.

    Then, you will enter from the store door where your motorcycle is. They will ask your AWB number. They look in the system where the motorcycle is. And then they will carry it to you. If your motorcycle is inside a box or closed you need to open it so the custom officer can see plate and VIN number (Vehicle Information Number, chassis number).

    Sixth, After that you need to go custom office on the 1st floor. It is inside where you are. 🙂

    He will come next to the motorcycle and will check plate and VIN number. After that you will with him to the office. He wants to see your original documents passport, motorcycle register and green card (Traffic insurance)

    He will enter everything to the system and write on your passport custom service info. They want all documents copies there. Depend; they will open a file there or not.

    The motorcycle are ready for custom service officer to check plate and number from it

    Seventh, You need to turn back to the custom service building and find director or assistant director again because he needs to see all documents again and they will signature again. They want to have you documents copies there or sent you back paper work office again to give copies to them.

    Eighth, Turn back to Turkish Cargo store area and find a office where you can give your ordino paper, letter…etc. You will have door number there. (Turkish:Kapi numarası) The office is next to the guard office, which you went on the fifth step. 🙂 They will take your copies there for passport and motorcycle register.

    Ninth, You will go back Turkish cargo main office, where you get a ordino and pay. Time to pay your store cost. The price changes every 24 hours. So, if you cannot finish all paperwork and take out your motorcycle in 24 hours you will pay again for another 24 hours. Note, they work until 5 pm.

    Short explain; the motorcycle-tracking RCF (Shipment Received from flight code) time is 8 am in the morning. You will pay until next day 8 am for 24 hours. But if you can’t take your motorcycle the same day until 5 pm the work time starts next day at 8 am. So, you never finish paperwork in 24 hours and have to pay again. Therefore, Khartoum to Istanbul fly was good because it arrives 2:30 am and you can get Turkish Cargo Ordino AWB around 8-9 am. You have all day to finish the paper work and get your motorcycle out. 🙂

    We paid 565 TL to Turkish Airlines Storage.

    Tenth, after take your bill to payment you will turn back the store area and show you paper to somebody who standing in front of the door. They will carry your motorcycle to the door and they will ask you where they will put it.

    We are working on the motorcycles to make them one piece again to ride in front of the turkish cargo store

    Finally, You should enjoy ride motorcycle in Istanbul, Turkey a while or ride around two hours to Ipsala border for Greece or Kapikule border to Bulgaria. 🙂

    So we paid total 815 TRL to Turkish Cargo in Istanbul. 1 USD= 4.5 TRL therefore we paid 181 USD.

    I will try to write all detail step by step if you want to do it with yourself. It took 3 hours for us all steps. Maybe speak Turkish was easy way. If you think so many things to do you should look a fixer. Maybe it can be nice to know all steps when you negotiate with them. 🙂

    Khartoum, Sudan to Istanbul Turkey airfreight cost was total 567 USD for one motorcycle.

    He is enjoying to ride in Istanbul

    If you have any question feel free to ask. You can send e-mail or write a comment under the article.

    Note1: Turkish Custom Service does not take any money! You will pay only Turkish airlines for the AWB – Ordino paper and storage.

    Note2: Some cargo companies don’t charge a storage price for first 12 hours. If you have plan to use airway for your motorcycle to send Turkey you should ask the company about it. We took our motorcycles in 12 hours but Turkish Cargo is charging. It doesn’t matter for them 5 minutes, 12 hours or 24 hours, all is the same price. But ask for a discount at the office.

    GS – FS

     

  • How can you ship your motorcycle cheap with air transport (airfreight)?

    How can you ship your motorcycle cheap with air transport (airfreight)?

    When we are traveling continent to continent one of the expensive things is shipping or airfreight our motorcycle to another continent.

    Why motorcycle transport is expensive by air?

    First of all, most cargo companies or airlines cargo companies don’t work with the customer directly, especially if they are in the dangerous class like motorcycles.  Therefore you need to find an agency for it and pay them.

    Second, motorcycle needs to go to the custom service for exit the country to check VIN, plate and engine number.  The agency can take care of it.

    Third, you need to pack and carry your motorcycle to the airport. General the agency doesn’t make a air freight box and sent you to another service / agency.

    All of them are extra costs for motorcycle transport by air. Also, you must pay for air freight as well. 🙁

     

    Air waybill has change a lot with motorcycle cargo box size.

    You must make a box or pallet for the motorcycle as small as possible because an airlines cargo companies calculate transport cost with the size. The kg is not important for your bill, only important for them self when they put the motorcycle in the plane, I suppose for balance.

    We used airfreight from Khartoum, Sudan to Istanbul, Turkey. The size of the motorcycle was 220*130*130 when fully pack with side bags and rear bags. The air waybill was around 500 USD like that. But you can make your motorcycle small so you can fly your motorcycle cheap.

    Here our video about shipping, you can watch before keep continue to read :  

    So, we got out our bags. We removed the screen and mirrors. We got the wheels and mudguard out. We wanted to take the plate and back panel as well but it wasn’t easy to that with Honda CRF250L.  Finally, our motorcycle size came 190*90*105 for air cargo. What was the air freight cost for one motorcycle after that? 🙂 228 USD.  We saved 232 USD for each motorcycles cargo.

    Small size of air cargo motorcycle pack 🙂

    Find a cheap air cargo package company for motorcycles.

    We didn’t pay any extra money to pack our motorcycle. When we were talking the company we showed some photos, which my brother sent to us from his air cargo packages, how we will pack motorcycles (you can use ours haha).

    We also told them we will get empty the tank, remove battery pole heads because we know that the motorcycle goes through dangerous good check. Also we said that we wont put motorcycle in a box or plastic wrap around so the custom service can see plate and VIN number.

    We made a pallet because forklift carries package to air cargo and we stabled them with strap clamps. We carried our Honda CRF20L on the back of a towing vehicle to the airport. We scared a little when towing vehicle was carrying because pallets were forklift cars. 🙂

    Normally, the agency doesn’t want to take a risk and send you another company to pack because they know the company how they can pack for dangerous good or custom service. After discuss  a while with the agency in Sudan they allowed to us make our own pack. We wanted one thing from them, close our motorcycle with plastic wrap after finish all control. We told them we can pay how much cost but they didn’t take anything. So, our motorcycle could be clean and nothing fall down any case. We gave them our motorcycle on the first photo to transport

    we said bye them in Khartoum airport, Sudan

    and motorcycle arrive to us like this. They were coming from Africa so the package can look like a Zebra. 🙂

    We are inside to the store. They brought our motorcycles

    Don’t forget after put your motorcycle on the pallet how much you have space it is yours. Therefore, you can carry some extra things on it as well. We were flying with a cheap fly which means we must pay extra for luggage. We put our helmet, boots, motorcycle gears and some little bags around the motorcycle and stabled them. 

    We heard from a lot of rider who use air cargo (airfreight) to transport their motorcycles some of them paid a lot of money to package between 200 USD to 600 USD. We paid 30 USD for each motorcycles cargo pack. So, talk a lot air cargo agency to make yourself or search and find cheap company to pack for you. Don’t pay a lot of money.

    GS

  • Ethiopia is incredible country to travel for everybody…

    Ethiopia is incredible country to travel for everybody…

    Ride motorcycle in Ethiopia with the gorgeous landscapes and mountain roads, meet Ethnic groups in the Omo Valley, see interesting culture and lifestyle, losing yourself in another world which is the Danakil Depression, enjoy traditional food, visit historical places, go trekking…etc. All of them are in one country, Ethiopia.

    ride motorcycle in Ethiopia

    We wanted to go to Ethiopia from Lake Turkana but the rain season didn’t allow us because of all river crossing (You can check it in Kenya stories). We had to go Moyale but it took two weeks before we could pass the border because there where protest and the country was choosing primary minister. We had to wait for sure the Moyale border was safe.

    Lake Turkana road with motorcycle

    We were on the border in the afternoon and it took only one hour for the border crossing. We don’t like to ride motorcycle in Africa when it is dark because of the roads, no lights and there are animals and humans crossing the roads or walking on the road. Therefore we stayed our first night in Moyale. Next day in the morning we were on the road to Konso.

    We heard a lot of stories about the Ethiopian roads, like it is so busy, no privacy, kids throw stones…etc. We decided to not stop so much on the road if it is not necessary. Also who was riding motorcycle in front of us they said that fuel was problem and black market price is crazy. We carried extra fuel with us from Kenya but we found easily just before Yabelo in the gas station.

    Easy to find petrol in omo valley, Ethiopia

    We arrived in Konso late afternoon. We stayed there because our plan was go to Low Omo Valley to see the ethnic groups there. We just enter Konso and we found a small pension with secure parking. So we didn’t think more just jump in. 🙂

    FInd cheap and secure parking pension or hotel on the road in Ethiopia

    We found a petrol station before the turn to Jinka and got our tanks full again. After pass some donkey roads we came to mountain roads. We didn’t think that the road could be beautiful like that. It was a tarmac road; of course you can see potholes sometimes, with nice landscape.

    How is Omo Valley road?

    We arrived in Jinka before afternoon. We found a pension and stayed in the city center. We stayed around 8-9 days in the Omo valley and visited Jinka, Key Afer, Turmi, Omoratte to see Ethnic groups of Kara, Hamer, Mursi, Ara, Dassenech and Banna. To be honest it was an incredible experience for us. Some way was nice but some way was feeling upset about their life. We wrote another two articles about the Omo Valley;

    1- About Omo Valley, where can you visit ethic groups?   2- How can you travel in Omo Valley by yourself? About roads, hotels, foods, village entry fees…etc all prices.    We hope you can enjoy when you read the articles and it can be helpful.

    backpack travel omo valley, ethiopia
    Mursi Village, Mago National Park, Omo Valley

    After the Omo Valley we arrived in Arba Minch. Our plan was to visit the Dorze people village and see the Chencha market. But we couldn’t. 🙁 I was not feeling well and we got rest for two days in Arba Minch. Yes, sometimes what I really want to see I need to skip because to be healthy on the road is most important I think. Also, we were thinking to go to Hawassa and stay next to the lake, it didn’t happen as well. Because when we were going to Arba Minch we heard that Ethiopia has new primary minister. It could be celebration or possible protest we didn’t have any idea. We were thinking that it is a good opportunity for us to go to Addis Ababa as soon as possible and see what happening there. We made 500 km in a day with our 250 cc motorcycle and Ethiopian roads. 🙂 We arrived at the Holland house just before dark. It was very nice to meet some other riders after a while on the East coast of Africa.

    We stayed 11 days there. We didn’t do that much we just got relax. We did have some interviews for a news channel and newspaper. Of course we enjoyed talking with our new and old friends. Also we apply Sudan visa in Addis Ababa, which was easier to get as what we were thinking.

    Female so women rider in Africa

    I must tell one think about traffic in Addis Ababa. You should be careful when you ride motorcycle or car because anytime anywhere can be accident. Because, most people do not follows traffic rules or light!

    Finally we got ready and hit the road again to Lalibela. The weather is crazy in Ethiopia. It was so hot in the Omo Valley and than we were sleeping with a blanket in Addis Ababa. When we were going to Lalibela some part of the road was so hot again. But suddenly it was getting cold again when we were going to top of the mountain. Of course don’t forget the rain. We couldn’t go to Weldiya. When we arrived Kombolcha it was already 5 pm and it was raining. We wanted to stay there but we couldn’t because the hotel we found they gave an extremely high price. We stayed max around 400 birr but there they were telling us 1000-1500 birr. We learned later if you check in with foreign passport price would be like that. Local people can pay 500 birr. 🙁

    Lets ride to Dessie, only 25 km far, and find more option. It was same but we had a person number from a company, Yapi Merkezi. We called Huseyin and ask him for help. He found the best hotel in the area, which is around 2000 birr they booked hotel for us and we paid only 700 birr. It was still out of our daily Africa budget but after got cold and wet it was great to stay in a five stars hotel. We have no idea when we stayed in a hotel like that before in our world trip 🙂 Next day we pass from Mersa and stop there for lunch and met Huseyin who helped us last night. We enjoyed the lunch and talked a lot for a couple of hours than we were on the road again.

    Sun set of Lalibela, Ethiopia

    When we arrived Dilb village where you can turn to the Lalibela road it was already 4:30 pm. Some people were complaining about the road how much bad. It was only 66 km but cannot be fun ride in the dark. We found one Tour Company’s car on the road and we asked the driver. He said that we could easily make it in two hours. The road is bad for car but easier for motorcycles. He was right. We arrived Lalibela in two hours. The road was so much fun to be honest and landscape was great. Only some kids wanted to throw stones 🙁

    Lalibela, Ethiopia

    We stayed in Lalibela three days. We visited old churches, walked in the historical place and saw the Lalibela market. It was nice to see area. But a couple days is enough.

    Where is the big cross church in Ehtiopia, Africa
    St. George Church, Lalibela

    Our next stop was Mekele because we were so curios to see the Danakil Depression. We looked the map which road we could ride and we decided a more challenge one. 🙂 We don’t have GPS just maps.me and we got lost. 🙁 We were trying to look at the map where we are but no road on the map. We turned back and tried to find a way. After that we came a road, which is thinking a road because we don’t think so any vehicle passes there. But I made it to turn and pass from the mountain.

    Finally we were on the tarmac road on afternoon and 165 km on front of us to Mekele. We could still make it before dark. Do you think so? In ten minutes, the rain started it was worse than shower and the road got like a lake. No place to stop and hide our self, so we keep riding. We arrived in Mekele in the dark totally wet. But important thing was we made it! 🙂

    You can imagine how much we were tired and slept like a baby almost until next day noon. We want to go Danakil therefore we must find a tour company to go there. We walked around Mekele and found some. We like one of them and decided to go with them four days Danakil Depression tour, which were going Erta Ale, Dallol. Sulphur spring, salt lake and canyon. You can find our Danakil journey and the place story in another our article.

    Salt Lake, Danakil

    When we turned back from the Danakil tour we were so tired. And we didn’t want to stay at the same hotel where we stayed before because they don’t have running water and we desperately needed a shower. But we had a small room there to put all our stuff in it and use security parking for our motorcycles. We just paid 130 birr for the room and parking. J We went there and said them we will keep the room one night more and than went to another room. We are so rich right? 🙂 Two different hotels two rooms one night we paid it. It was total 400 birr anyway…

    Our motorcycle bags room in Mekele 🙂

    Mekele is so different than other places we visited so far in Ethiopia. We were more relaxed and enjoying walking around in the city. Nobody disturb you on the road, we walked everywhere in the night, nobody cheating the price because we were tourist. We really like to be there. We can tell you if you go to Ethiopia you will see how much different people behavior is in different regions. Mekele is the capital city of Tigray Region.

    After Mekele our next stop in Ethiopia was Axum, this city is still in the Tigray Region and we had the same feeling as in Mekele. We were planning to visit some churches and baths of Queen Sheba but we couldn’t because after change the weather a lot in Danakil and mountains road we got a little sick. Rest was the best option for us. You can get so much enjoy around Axum especially if you ride motorcycle in Ethiopia Mekele to Axum road is one of the nice mountain road in Ethiopia.

    After get rest three days in Axum we hit the road again towards Debark. We heard from many riders that the road to Debark is the best road in Ethiopia. We were so curious to ride motorcycles there. We can tell that it is on of the amazing road in Africa.

    The day started with fun but? He started to complain about his motorcycle when the motorcycle is climbing the mountains: ‘My motorcycles doesn’t want to go!’ The problem was look like clutch pad because he was complaining similar problem, which I did with my Honda CRF 250L in Malawi. L We arrived Debark almost in the dark. End of the day we had sometime hard time when we ride motorcycles but still we enjoyed with the landscape.

    Debark to Gondar is just a few km each other. So why did we plan to stay in Debark? Because we wanted to ride motorcycle in Simien Mountains National Park people say the Simian is on of the most beautiful ranges in Africa and it is on the world Unesco World Heritage list. Also, we could visit Gelada monkeys there. If you are lucky you can see Ethiopian wolfs, black and white colobus and Hamydra baboons as well in Simien Mountains.

    But we had to skip. 🙁 When one of the Honda CRF 250L had a clutch pad problem we didn’t want to ride in the park. Another option is hiking Simien for a couple of days. We were thinking that we are tired but at the same time we knew that we wont come back Africa for a while because we have a lot of road in front of us to ride motorcycle and discover the world. So, push our self to hiking.

    Gelada monkeys look like baboons…

    In the night, I was wearing my jeans to go out dinner I felt that my nail broke or something from to toe. No pain but feeling was weird. No way, you are kidding me! My nail took out totally from the skin, no pain no bleeding. I knew that I would have some problem with my toe and nail after Kilimanjaro because some part I couldn’t walk there with pain. What should I do? Ride motorcycle is another problem. We just closed the toe with antibiotic cream. Yeap, we didn’t have any alternative more to go Simien Mountain. No motorcycle clutch and no nail! 🙁

    After all, still we were lucky because we saw Gelada monkeys next to the road. We stopped and watch them a while. When we were riding to Gonder we were still smiling and happy to how much we were lucky when we had a lot of unlucky things in a week. 🙂

    Gelada Monkeys, Simian Mountain, Ethiopia

    We stayed a couple of days in Gonder to change clutch pad, engine oil and also make sure for my toe got better a little before go anywhere.

    Our last destination could be Lake Tana, Blue Nile falls and Awira Amiba. We started to talk about it to go or not go. We got our Sudan visa 15 days ago in Addis Ababa; we had no idea that we had only for 15 days more or when we are on the border they will give us again 30 days. My toe had problem when I was wearing the motorcycles boots. We were feeling tired after 1,5 years in Africa. Also, we didn’t know what was waiting us in Sudan because we knew that there is a fuel problem and it was getting more and more serious day by day. Yes, we started Ethiopian journey so lucky to spend time in Omo valley, Lalibela and Danakil. We didn’t miss any mountain roads to ride motorcycles. We suppose that it wasn’t the end of the world if we couldn’t see Simien Mountains and Lake Tana. At the same time, it could be a reason to come back Ethiopia again :). To be honest, we could come back here and spend three months because Ethiopia is an impressive country anyway….

    Gonder weeding car 🙂

    Our decision we are going to Sudan… After stayed three days in Gondar we tried to hit the road again to Sudan. 🙂 Woke up early morning, got ready and started to ride now we only need petrol. We wanted to carry how much fuel we could carry because we are not sure where we could find petrol in Sudan. After two hours search we could find petrol in Gondar. Lucky day! 🙁

    By the way, Gondar is capital city of Amhara Region. We really so much enjoy there as well like Mekele. Walk on the street day or nighttime; sit anywhere to drink or eat was so nice and comfortable.

    Gonder castle
    You need to know before go to Ethiopia;

    Ethiopia use their own calendar and time. They are 8 years behind us with local calendar. So, I was young when i was there. 🙂 One year is 13 months and last months is 5 or 6 days depend on February. Also, if you ask the hotel when the breakfast starts they could tell you 12. It means 6 am in the morning.

    It was April 2018 when we took the bill from the hotel.

    Hotel in Turmi, Omo Valley

    Ethiopian food is really nice. We can recommend to try local food especially meat.

    Cheap and amazing Ethiopian food.
    Yeshekla Tibs with chicken and meat, Moyale

    Also, their juice are so nice when the weather is so hot or you need to fresh up. Juice are more smooth without ice. You can eat your juice. 🙂

    Avocado and mango juice with lemon, Axum

    Of course Do not miss to drink Ethiopian coffee. You know that Ethiopia is famous with coffee in Africa.

    Traditional Ethiopian coffee

    You always carry extra fuel with you in Ethiopia if you have small tank like our motorcycles Honda CRF 250L. Find petrol doesn’t so hard if they have electricity because the pump work with it. When we were there Ethiopia had electricity problem and cut off a lot. Possible to find on the black market but the cost will be high.

    GS

  • Hottest place on the earth : Dallol Ethiopia | Danakil Desert

    Hottest place on the earth : Dallol Ethiopia | Danakil Desert

    One of the hottest place on the earth is Hottest place on the earth : Dallol Ethiopia, which is most people call  Danakil depression or Danakil Desert. 🙂

    I don’t know how I can explain Danakil Depression because it gives a feeling to you like you went another world, not belong to planet earth.

    Erta Ale Crater, Danakil Depression

    Hottest place on the earth : Dallol Ethiopia | Danakil Desert

    Dallol is in the North East of Ethiopia in the Afar Region. Do you know this is one of the driest, lowest and hottest places on the earth? Welcome to the Danakil Desert which is 100 meters below sea level and the temperature is almost the same all the year round, 45-55 degrees.

    Lowest point, 100 meters below sea level, Dalol, Ethiopia

    In one place there are more different things to see, which you can not see some where else in the same region or the only place on earth; Desert, active volcano – magma (lava lake), Slat flats and lakes, Dallol- sulfur lakes. All of them are so special in the world to see.

    Colorful sulphur spring, Danakil, Ethiopia

    Dallol Ethiopia : Let’ s start with Erta Ale (active volcano)

    It is 613 meters above sea level and one of the six active lave lakes in the world. It has more then one magma (lava) lake. It had erupted several times between 2005 and 2017. After the last eruption, the magma is lower inside the crater then before, therefore it gets so much foggy so you cannot see the magma very well now. And if it is so much windy you can have a hard time to breath because of the smell (the smoke is toxic and very unhealthy).

    After we visited the Nyiragongo volcano in Congo we decided to visit Erta Ale in Ethiopia as well because both of them are one of the incredible and dangerous volcanos.

    After leave the Abala to Afdera road to go to the Erta Ale volcano, the nightmare could start because only 13 km drive to reach El Dom campsite but it took two hours. You must pass sandy and all lava stones road. Please, keep in your mind that you cannot go alone to the Erta Ale volcano!

    We got a little rest in El Dom campsite and ate dinner. Our drivers and guides were getting ready to hike. They were taking beds and water from the car to make sure we have enough water and bed top of the Erta Ale volcano. Our camels were already ready to carry our water, bed, sleeping bags (in a case if the weather cold up there) Also, you can hire  camel if you don’t want to walk. Some people had their own camel. 🙂

    In the night we started to walk to the Erta Ale crater. Why do you need to trek in the night to the volcano? Believe me you don’t want to walk under the sun, This is one of the hottest and driest place in the world. It is around 4-5 hours to walk. When we reached the top it was so much foggy and smelly. If the wind changes the direction it was so hard to breath.

    So, some people skipped to be on the top of the crater and look down to see the magma lake and they turned back the Erta Ale campsite. We walked all the way up so I was a little stubborn to see magma. Here it was, I didn’t want to give up!

    Erta Ale magma/lava lake, Ethiopia

    See magma or not still the feeling was so strange because you can here something like strong waves from the ocean (like you are sitting top of the cliff and hear the waves smash into the reef. It was such so strange to hear). If it decides to erupt you don’t have any change to survive. I can hear that you thinking it is too dangerous. Maybe it was. Believe me, I can’t explain my feeling when I was there because there are no words to describe it.

    Erta Ale Campsite

    We slept next to the active volcano, just outside on the hot ground. The campsite was a little far from the crater but when the wind was strong still we could smell all sulfur/toxic so strong. We just sleep a couple of hour and we started walk again around 5 am. This time we were walking in daylight to see around.

    Erta Ale hiking route

    We watched sunrise on the road as well.When we had a break we could see each other how much tired because we didn’t sleep well in the night and very short… It is the way to see special things.

    We arrived El Dom campsite. After breakfast we said bye to the Erta Ale volcano and left to see other special places in the Afar region, Ethiopia.

    You can ride a camel to go Erta Ale Volcano

    Dallol Ethiopia :  The Camel Caravan, Salt Canyon, Flats and lake

    This is one of the nice things to see in the Danakil Depression. When we were there it was cloudy so we where not lucky with the sunset and salt lake reflection. Still it was enjoyable. Feeling was a small version of Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia.

    Lake Afrera or Lake Karum (Salt lake), Danakil, Ethiopia

    The Afar people work on the salt flats. They break salt and make salt bricks; each is around 4 kilos. When the sunset comes they are loading the salt bricks to their camels. Each camel carries around thirty salt bricks. It will take two days or more to reach the nearest village where they can sell the salt. They can exchange salt with food or other supplies there or sell the salt bricks. On the road, they guard their camels from bandits when they are close to the Eritrea border.

    Salt flats, Hamedela, Danakil Depression

    Loading camels is an old tradition for some Afar people because by truck is easier to carry more salt bricks but most Afar people wants to keep continue their traditional; The Camel Caravan. This is also because they pass through the mountains by some remote villages who really need the support of the caravans for their supplies.

    Camel caravan, Hamedela, Dallol

    Our plan was to see the Afar people how they can cut salt but we arrived there on Thursday just before sunset. Friday is a holiday for them, they have only one day off in a week. That’s why we saw only the camel caravan during sunset.

    Salt mine, Dallol, Ethiopia

    Hottest place on the earth : Dallol sulfur lake (springs) is not belong the earth.

    It is really hard to describe Dallol. It is look like hot spring but it has acid liquid in. Believe me the feeling is so strange when walking on it because we know that it is so hot and acid. If anything breaks under your feed you don’t want it to touch your body. Therefore, you must listen your guide and don’t jump! Just walk slowly and enjoy it.

    Acidic liquid walking way on sulphur spring, Dallol

    How the color can be green, yellow or different brown in Dallol? The magma heats groundwater moves up towards the surface, it dissolves salt, sulphur, potash and other minerals and deposits them in the Dallol craters. So, the landscape is of green acid ponds and iron oxide, sulfur and salt desert plains.

    Sulphur spring, pond in Dalol, Ethiopia

    We sat a while and look the landscape, which was unbelievable. We can’t believe that we were watching sulfur pods and has acidic liquid around us. Please remember that, you can not visit Dallol alone like Erta Ale volcano! This is one of the most amazing places we have ever seen and this is the only place in the world to see this, there is no other place on earth with volcano activity on a salt mountain.

    Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

    We stayed Hamedala village to visited The camel caravan, slat flat and Dallol. We slept outside under the stars. Middle of the night it was still 40 degrees. We left from Hamedala around 5:30 am to visit Sulfur lake of Dallol, yellow pound and the canyon. Dallol is about 130 meters below sea level and therefore it is one of the hottest places on earth, there is nearly no humidity and it gets easily over 45 degrees celsius.

    Hamed Ela Campsite, Danakil
    If you want to visit Danakil you need to know before go what you take/carry with you; 

    You are going to one of the hottest places in the world. So, you need sun cream and a hat.

    You will sleep outside on the Erta Ale crater and in Hamedala or on the road you don’t have toilet. So, you need to carry your toilet paper, wet tissue and hand cleaner.

    The smell is really so strong in Erta Ale and sometime it’s hard to take a breath, it is toxic as well. We can highly recommend having a mask because; a buff or scarf wasn’t enough in Erta Ale Volcano.

    You will be hiking in the night after dinner and walk back early morning before breakfast. So, you should have some snacks with you and a headlight or torch.

    If you have any heart or blood pressure problems it’s not recommended to go to the Danakil Depression because of the hot!

    Don’t worry about water or food. The companies carry more than enough.

    One of the basic breakfast for 3 person 🙂

    Nice to have flip floppers with you to get rest your feed sometimes 🙂

    Carry small backpack with you! If you have plan to walk Erta Ale volcano you need to carry your personal stuff with you. The camels only carry bed, sleeping bag and water to use top of the crater.

    No electricity! You should carry external charge with you for your camera, phone…etc. because you cannot find a place all the time to charge and depend on how many days tours you have.

    Abala guess house, danakil, ethiopia

    We went four days tour with ETT Company. We slept first night on Erta Ale Volcano, second night Abala and last night in Hamedala. We met some backpackers during the tour and they told us they went with ETT tour in other cities and they help them for transport or other tours in Ethiopia. Also, we saw some other people who has their own tour like two days Erta Ale or only Dallol sulfur lake tour. We met a German couple on the motorcycle they had a private tour with ETT and went to the Danakil Depression by motorcycle with them.

    Yellow pond, Dallol, Ethiopia

    We ride to Mekele and started our tour from there. First time, we didn’t want to ride motorcycle because it was so hot 🙂 we wanted to enjoy with the landscape and area don’t fight with the hot. To be honest, it was such an interesting experience for us because after a while we were sitting in a car with ac and just looking around. 🙂 Also it is cheaper to go with a 4×4 tour then with your own motorcycle, we learned it is even possible to go by bicycle.

    Salf Flats, Danakil

    GS