One Road One World

Category: Eastern Africa

  • Our last country in Africa is Sudan…

    Our last country in Africa is Sudan…

    Sudan is totally different world after Ethiopia, in many ways. It is not a touristic country at all with only 10.000 people visiting in a year and most of them will probably have a background in Sudan. For us it was a country we needed to pass on our way to Egypt from where we would ship our motorcycles to Turkey.

    We did hear a lot of good stories about the people in Sudan so of course we where very curious about it, especially after Ethiopia what was so intense and where you are never alone and everyone wants something from you when you stop with the motorcycle. Well I need to say all stories where completely true, we never seen so generous people.

    We arrived in Sudan border afternoon and we left from the border at the end of the day; we already knew we would be able to wild camp again in Sudan after a long time.

    For us this is still the best way to spend the night as it gives us the feeling of freedom. We ride till the sun nearly disappeared from the sky and we found a nice spot to open the tent and see the last bit of the sunset. We prepared a meal and after that we set up the tent. In Sudan it is very hot so we decided only our inside tent was enough so the wind could keep us from sweating. Also nice is that we can see everything outside without opening any zips. We slept like babies and woke up with daylight at 5 am, after a fast breakfast we hit the road again. In Sudan we need to ride early in the day and late afternoon, at the moment the temperature was getting up to 48 degrees and no clouds for any shadow on the road.

    No petrol! And our motorcycles broke down in Al-Qadarif 🙁

    We had 100 km to the first city is called Al-Qadarif; here we needed to look for petrol. The petrol in Sudan is very cheap 0,18 cents per liter. The only problem is that at the moment when we where there (May 2018) there was not enough petrol available. We passed several gas stations and asked for petrol, 1 of the wanted to sell us some for almost ten times more the price from what you pay at the pump. This was too much for us, after talking a bit more someone else came to look for petrol. They asked and drive away pretty fast, one guy (from the gas station) pointed me to the car to follow them.

    I told her get ready we needed to rush, I straightaway started the motorcycle and ride behind them. Next gas station I was behind him, no gas again. He drive away again, when a traffic light came I went next to the car and explained him we are looking for petrol as well, he looked like a bit confused but then said, ok follow us. We passed several stations without success till we came to a gas station with a cue of hundreds of cars. Wow, this petrol problem is serious!

    The car went straight to the front of the cue and talked a bit with the guy working and he filled up his car, unbelievable! He looked at us and said come, come you can get full now as well. They filled both our tanks but we needed 5 liters extra so we where able to make it to Khartoum (the capital of Sudan). He didn’t want to fill the bottle we had (we learned later this is illegal) but the entire crowd pushed him that we really needed it and he should fill our 5-liter bottle, luckily he did. Happy us, we started the engines and left the station.

    We ride 500 meters with our new petrol and all of a sudden my motorcycle refuses to go, no way I did see we got petrol, not diesel! My motorcycle dropped down once, I started it again and we ride a bit more to see if it will work normally or not? Then she told me she had the same problem; this was not good! We looked on the map and found a hotel pretty close, this was the best place to go and we could check the motorcycles what was wrong? We tried to call our mechanic friend and her brother in Turkey to see if they had a explanation for what happened to our motorcycles. They told us the same as we said to each other, it cannot be that something broke down at the same moment for two motorcycles. It needs to be the fuel, but there is no other fuel available. We learned from the locals that the quality is not good and more vehicles have the same problem.

    We decided we needed to drain the fuel, open and clean everything. The tank, spark plug, and tubes all we can find. First I tried to get both our spark plugs out, mine went normal but hers was a big fight (which I eventually lost). It was stuck and moving very hard, but it looked like it was moving so I pressed a little more and then boom my tool broke. Damn, my spark plug is out and I don’t have a tool anymore to get it back in. I took my broken tool and walked around the area, I found a local motorcycle and a few more people talking to each other. I showed my tool, and pointed to his spark plug (what was visible) and explained where mine was. They talked a bit and one guy took the broken tool and left. We couldn’t understand each other for a single word but I had the feeling I had no other option then to trust this guy could find a new one or repair the tool. I walked back to her and told her what happened, we sit down and waited. After one hour he came back with the repaired tool in his hand smiling, we both got a big smile as well and said thank you. First I did was place my spark plug back to where it belongs.

    In the mean time it got late and dark so we decided to call it a day, have dinner and go to sleep. The next morning we can test the motorcycles again and see what happens. In the morning I started both motorcycles and started riding a little bit, no problem at all… What is going on? Is the whole problem to do with the temperatures, is everything getting to hot? We decided to still work on the motorcycle and clean the tank and some of the hoses that we can. It was too late to leave now anyway because it was hottest time of the day. After cleaning everything we started the motorcycles, they run so we decided to start packing them and leave around 5 pm when it’s getting a bit cooler. We ride 5 km and the same problem came back, we stopped and talked to each other and decided lets push the motorcycles a bit further till we find a place for bush camp, it is to hot to stay in a room.

    In 20 km we find a good spot hidden from the road, we figured out the hot and the petrol must be the problem. We still had some petrol from Ethiopia as well with us what was a better quality, ok we can mix our petrol and leave with the sunrise to reach the next city and see how the motorcycles react to that.

    We woke up at 4 am and after a quick breakfast we started riding at 5 am. Of course we where a little scared for what can happen now. They both went very smooth, no problems at all to ride. We pushed ourselves to not stop so much and made the 200 km in about 3 hours.

    With all the mixing of petrol and emptying the tank we lost some fuel so we needed to buy another 5 liters to get to Khartoum, we stopped at a gas station what had a enormous cue again. I told her to go with the empty 5 liter bottle put on your best smile and hopefully he can help us. She walked to the pump but no one was getting petrol yet, she asked a military guy on a motorcycle how to get petrol and he pointed her to a men sitting in front of the station who was probably the owner of the station. She explained she needed just 5 liters to get to Khartoum and said her motorcycle is on the road, luckily he fell for the smile and give us 5 liters of petrol. Ok, that problem is fixed. 🙂

    We had no option to ride, must stop Al Hasahisa…

    We sit down somewhere to have a coffee and talked what we should do? Stay here or see if we can push ourselves another 200 km to Khartoum? We decided to go to Khartoum; there we could get rest. We just left the city and the problem started again 🙁 probably it’s to hot again for the motorcycles.

    We stopped at the next village, which is called Al Hasahisa at a coffee place it was now 10 am. While drinking our coffee and eating our lunch we were talking what could we do next? We could not sit all day this small place because if we want to ride again we must wait around 6 pm to the weather and our motorcycles tank also engine really cool down. Suddenly, one man came to me and asked where we are from and do we have any problem on motorcycles? After explain what is going on he asked if we want to come to his house to rest a little bit and take a shower. I didn’t think twice and said yes straight away.

    We followed Mamdouh to his house and met with his family, they brought us juice a bed and showed where the shower was. During the day we got relaxed and played a little bit with his 2 daughters, when he came back from work we ate dinner together. Then Mamdouh said to me we should stay the night with him and his family as well, we said ok and decided we can sleep here and leave early in the morning. Khartoum was 150 km away if we leave early we hopefully could make it without any problems.

    After a good night rest, we said bye to Mamdouh and his family. For us this is an unbelievable thing to just open your house for 2 complete strangers who stop in the city you live on 2 motorcycles. This is Sudan, the country with amazing hospitality from the people.

    Finally we arrived Khartoum but with tear on her eyes 🙁

    We started riding and everything went pretty smooth till we reached Khartoum, this is the capital and biggest city so that means a lot of traffic, which is not good for our motorcycles right now. Let’s just say we had a very big fight to make to our campsite in the middle of the city. She got very emotional when we arrived, these motorcycles are our babies while we are traveling, it is not feeling good if we need to treat them like this, we are breaking them.

    After we calmed down we set up the tent and I bought a few cold drinks and we chilled out. We called Mohammed a local biker to meet in the night at the campsite to have a coffee or juice.

    After one hour our friend Theresa showed up which we met before in Addis Ababa, she is Norwegian and traveling on a bicycle. It is so nice to meet other people on this kind of moments. We talked, laughed and shared a lot of stories. In the night Mohammed came to us as well and we shared more stories, he called one of his friends Fatih (a Turkish man living in Khartoum) also a rider and big fan of motorcycles.

    Of course this was very special for him, it is not happening very often that a Turkish rider is coming to Khartoum by motorcycle and especially not a woman. We talked all night and Fatih invited us to stay at his house while we stayed in Khartoum. Unfortunately he was going on a holiday in a few days to Uganda but he allowed us to stay in his house while he was away. Of course this is a very nice opportunity for us to have some time to work on the motorcycles and solve our problems. Theresa came with us as well and we had a nice house all for ourselves. Fatih owns a car repair shop so we had a place to work and tools if we needed as well.

    In these 10 days we relaxed a bit and worked on our motorcycles, they were riding fine again but most of the time. 🙂

    Noway to get  a visa for Egypt!

    Now our next issue was a visa for Egypt to her. First time we went to the embassy they were sent us to the consult of Egypt, this is where they issue visas. We went there and they told us come back tomorrow at 10, this is the time to issue visas to foreigners. Again we went, we needed to get inside the consult to explain our situation. This seems more easy then it actually is, when we arrived and try to ask for any option to go in nobody wanted to speak English to us only Arabic, not friendly at all! After trying and trying we left and decided maybe someone can help us, a few local people told us that they can help. We made some phone calls in the night and hoped for the best to get an appointment with the consultant from Egypt. This didn’t work either, so we went back again to try it ourselves. Eventually we found with some help the right line to go for us to apply for the visa, we had all papers with us but after waiting 3 hours they simply told us for Turkish citizens there is a special procedure you need to go to the embassy itself or need to wait more than a month for visa result. We went back to the embassy again but they didn’t allow us to go inside, they were totally unfriendly and rude. They didn’t want to call anybody inside the embassy who we can talk and explain our satiation. They sent us back to the consult again and closed to the embassy door on our face.

    It is so frustrating if officials work against you, we have been trying to solve our visa issue now for 5 days without any success at all. We shared our story with some people and they agreed we need to try it in a different way. Eventually some people even called the ambassador from Egypt in Sudan and in Turkey but nobody could help us to get the visa for her.

    To be honest, we could not want to believe what was going on because we passed 33 countries in Africa and we never ever had any problem with visas before. Of course we were very disappointed as this means we cannot finish our journey in Egypt what we were planning. So, we need to ship our motorcycles out of Sudan and not going to see the pyramids in Sudan or Egypt, no diving in the red sea. 🙁 Maybe we could ride to Egypt borders and see nice pyramids in Sudan but she was so upset to run behind Egypt visa and nothing we had; also their behavior in the embassy made her so unhappy. She didn’t want to do something more because of that plus petrol issue plus motorcycles problem plus 48 degrees. 🙁

    We airfreight our motorcycles from Sudan to Turkey how we did this we explain in a very detailed article here.

    Until finish Sudan video, we would like to share our motorcycle shipping video which was fun and run 🙂

    When we left our motorcycles at the airport we got a bit relaxed and enjoyed our time with Fatih till we fly out to Turkey. We are so happy to met him. I hope we can see you somewhere again Fatih.

    We want to thank all the helpful people we met in Sudan.

    FS

  • Ethiopia is incredible country to travel for everybody…

    Ethiopia is incredible country to travel for everybody…

    Ride motorcycle in Ethiopia with the gorgeous landscapes and mountain roads, meet Ethnic groups in the Omo Valley, see interesting culture and lifestyle, losing yourself in another world which is the Danakil Depression, enjoy traditional food, visit historical places, go trekking…etc. All of them are in one country, Ethiopia.

    ride motorcycle in Ethiopia

    We wanted to go to Ethiopia from Lake Turkana but the rain season didn’t allow us because of all river crossing (You can check it in Kenya stories). We had to go Moyale but it took two weeks before we could pass the border because there where protest and the country was choosing primary minister. We had to wait for sure the Moyale border was safe.

    Lake Turkana road with motorcycle

    We were on the border in the afternoon and it took only one hour for the border crossing. We don’t like to ride motorcycle in Africa when it is dark because of the roads, no lights and there are animals and humans crossing the roads or walking on the road. Therefore we stayed our first night in Moyale. Next day in the morning we were on the road to Konso.

    We heard a lot of stories about the Ethiopian roads, like it is so busy, no privacy, kids throw stones…etc. We decided to not stop so much on the road if it is not necessary. Also who was riding motorcycle in front of us they said that fuel was problem and black market price is crazy. We carried extra fuel with us from Kenya but we found easily just before Yabelo in the gas station.

    Easy to find petrol in omo valley, Ethiopia

    We arrived in Konso late afternoon. We stayed there because our plan was go to Low Omo Valley to see the ethnic groups there. We just enter Konso and we found a small pension with secure parking. So we didn’t think more just jump in. 🙂

    FInd cheap and secure parking pension or hotel on the road in Ethiopia

    We found a petrol station before the turn to Jinka and got our tanks full again. After pass some donkey roads we came to mountain roads. We didn’t think that the road could be beautiful like that. It was a tarmac road; of course you can see potholes sometimes, with nice landscape.

    How is Omo Valley road?

    We arrived in Jinka before afternoon. We found a pension and stayed in the city center. We stayed around 8-9 days in the Omo valley and visited Jinka, Key Afer, Turmi, Omoratte to see Ethnic groups of Kara, Hamer, Mursi, Ara, Dassenech and Banna. To be honest it was an incredible experience for us. Some way was nice but some way was feeling upset about their life. We wrote another two articles about the Omo Valley;

    1- About Omo Valley, where can you visit ethic groups?   2- How can you travel in Omo Valley by yourself? About roads, hotels, foods, village entry fees…etc all prices.    We hope you can enjoy when you read the articles and it can be helpful.

    backpack travel omo valley, ethiopia
    Mursi Village, Mago National Park, Omo Valley

    After the Omo Valley we arrived in Arba Minch. Our plan was to visit the Dorze people village and see the Chencha market. But we couldn’t. 🙁 I was not feeling well and we got rest for two days in Arba Minch. Yes, sometimes what I really want to see I need to skip because to be healthy on the road is most important I think. Also, we were thinking to go to Hawassa and stay next to the lake, it didn’t happen as well. Because when we were going to Arba Minch we heard that Ethiopia has new primary minister. It could be celebration or possible protest we didn’t have any idea. We were thinking that it is a good opportunity for us to go to Addis Ababa as soon as possible and see what happening there. We made 500 km in a day with our 250 cc motorcycle and Ethiopian roads. 🙂 We arrived at the Holland house just before dark. It was very nice to meet some other riders after a while on the East coast of Africa.

    We stayed 11 days there. We didn’t do that much we just got relax. We did have some interviews for a news channel and newspaper. Of course we enjoyed talking with our new and old friends. Also we apply Sudan visa in Addis Ababa, which was easier to get as what we were thinking.

    Female so women rider in Africa

    I must tell one think about traffic in Addis Ababa. You should be careful when you ride motorcycle or car because anytime anywhere can be accident. Because, most people do not follows traffic rules or light!

    Finally we got ready and hit the road again to Lalibela. The weather is crazy in Ethiopia. It was so hot in the Omo Valley and than we were sleeping with a blanket in Addis Ababa. When we were going to Lalibela some part of the road was so hot again. But suddenly it was getting cold again when we were going to top of the mountain. Of course don’t forget the rain. We couldn’t go to Weldiya. When we arrived Kombolcha it was already 5 pm and it was raining. We wanted to stay there but we couldn’t because the hotel we found they gave an extremely high price. We stayed max around 400 birr but there they were telling us 1000-1500 birr. We learned later if you check in with foreign passport price would be like that. Local people can pay 500 birr. 🙁

    Lets ride to Dessie, only 25 km far, and find more option. It was same but we had a person number from a company, Yapi Merkezi. We called Huseyin and ask him for help. He found the best hotel in the area, which is around 2000 birr they booked hotel for us and we paid only 700 birr. It was still out of our daily Africa budget but after got cold and wet it was great to stay in a five stars hotel. We have no idea when we stayed in a hotel like that before in our world trip 🙂 Next day we pass from Mersa and stop there for lunch and met Huseyin who helped us last night. We enjoyed the lunch and talked a lot for a couple of hours than we were on the road again.

    Sun set of Lalibela, Ethiopia

    When we arrived Dilb village where you can turn to the Lalibela road it was already 4:30 pm. Some people were complaining about the road how much bad. It was only 66 km but cannot be fun ride in the dark. We found one Tour Company’s car on the road and we asked the driver. He said that we could easily make it in two hours. The road is bad for car but easier for motorcycles. He was right. We arrived Lalibela in two hours. The road was so much fun to be honest and landscape was great. Only some kids wanted to throw stones 🙁

    Lalibela, Ethiopia

    We stayed in Lalibela three days. We visited old churches, walked in the historical place and saw the Lalibela market. It was nice to see area. But a couple days is enough.

    Where is the big cross church in Ehtiopia, Africa
    St. George Church, Lalibela

    Our next stop was Mekele because we were so curios to see the Danakil Depression. We looked the map which road we could ride and we decided a more challenge one. 🙂 We don’t have GPS just maps.me and we got lost. 🙁 We were trying to look at the map where we are but no road on the map. We turned back and tried to find a way. After that we came a road, which is thinking a road because we don’t think so any vehicle passes there. But I made it to turn and pass from the mountain.

    Finally we were on the tarmac road on afternoon and 165 km on front of us to Mekele. We could still make it before dark. Do you think so? In ten minutes, the rain started it was worse than shower and the road got like a lake. No place to stop and hide our self, so we keep riding. We arrived in Mekele in the dark totally wet. But important thing was we made it! 🙂

    You can imagine how much we were tired and slept like a baby almost until next day noon. We want to go Danakil therefore we must find a tour company to go there. We walked around Mekele and found some. We like one of them and decided to go with them four days Danakil Depression tour, which were going Erta Ale, Dallol. Sulphur spring, salt lake and canyon. You can find our Danakil journey and the place story in another our article.

    Salt Lake, Danakil

    When we turned back from the Danakil tour we were so tired. And we didn’t want to stay at the same hotel where we stayed before because they don’t have running water and we desperately needed a shower. But we had a small room there to put all our stuff in it and use security parking for our motorcycles. We just paid 130 birr for the room and parking. J We went there and said them we will keep the room one night more and than went to another room. We are so rich right? 🙂 Two different hotels two rooms one night we paid it. It was total 400 birr anyway…

    Our motorcycle bags room in Mekele 🙂

    Mekele is so different than other places we visited so far in Ethiopia. We were more relaxed and enjoying walking around in the city. Nobody disturb you on the road, we walked everywhere in the night, nobody cheating the price because we were tourist. We really like to be there. We can tell you if you go to Ethiopia you will see how much different people behavior is in different regions. Mekele is the capital city of Tigray Region.

    After Mekele our next stop in Ethiopia was Axum, this city is still in the Tigray Region and we had the same feeling as in Mekele. We were planning to visit some churches and baths of Queen Sheba but we couldn’t because after change the weather a lot in Danakil and mountains road we got a little sick. Rest was the best option for us. You can get so much enjoy around Axum especially if you ride motorcycle in Ethiopia Mekele to Axum road is one of the nice mountain road in Ethiopia.

    After get rest three days in Axum we hit the road again towards Debark. We heard from many riders that the road to Debark is the best road in Ethiopia. We were so curious to ride motorcycles there. We can tell that it is on of the amazing road in Africa.

    The day started with fun but? He started to complain about his motorcycle when the motorcycle is climbing the mountains: ‘My motorcycles doesn’t want to go!’ The problem was look like clutch pad because he was complaining similar problem, which I did with my Honda CRF 250L in Malawi. L We arrived Debark almost in the dark. End of the day we had sometime hard time when we ride motorcycles but still we enjoyed with the landscape.

    Debark to Gondar is just a few km each other. So why did we plan to stay in Debark? Because we wanted to ride motorcycle in Simien Mountains National Park people say the Simian is on of the most beautiful ranges in Africa and it is on the world Unesco World Heritage list. Also, we could visit Gelada monkeys there. If you are lucky you can see Ethiopian wolfs, black and white colobus and Hamydra baboons as well in Simien Mountains.

    But we had to skip. 🙁 When one of the Honda CRF 250L had a clutch pad problem we didn’t want to ride in the park. Another option is hiking Simien for a couple of days. We were thinking that we are tired but at the same time we knew that we wont come back Africa for a while because we have a lot of road in front of us to ride motorcycle and discover the world. So, push our self to hiking.

    Gelada monkeys look like baboons…

    In the night, I was wearing my jeans to go out dinner I felt that my nail broke or something from to toe. No pain but feeling was weird. No way, you are kidding me! My nail took out totally from the skin, no pain no bleeding. I knew that I would have some problem with my toe and nail after Kilimanjaro because some part I couldn’t walk there with pain. What should I do? Ride motorcycle is another problem. We just closed the toe with antibiotic cream. Yeap, we didn’t have any alternative more to go Simien Mountain. No motorcycle clutch and no nail! 🙁

    After all, still we were lucky because we saw Gelada monkeys next to the road. We stopped and watch them a while. When we were riding to Gonder we were still smiling and happy to how much we were lucky when we had a lot of unlucky things in a week. 🙂

    Gelada Monkeys, Simian Mountain, Ethiopia

    We stayed a couple of days in Gonder to change clutch pad, engine oil and also make sure for my toe got better a little before go anywhere.

    Our last destination could be Lake Tana, Blue Nile falls and Awira Amiba. We started to talk about it to go or not go. We got our Sudan visa 15 days ago in Addis Ababa; we had no idea that we had only for 15 days more or when we are on the border they will give us again 30 days. My toe had problem when I was wearing the motorcycles boots. We were feeling tired after 1,5 years in Africa. Also, we didn’t know what was waiting us in Sudan because we knew that there is a fuel problem and it was getting more and more serious day by day. Yes, we started Ethiopian journey so lucky to spend time in Omo valley, Lalibela and Danakil. We didn’t miss any mountain roads to ride motorcycles. We suppose that it wasn’t the end of the world if we couldn’t see Simien Mountains and Lake Tana. At the same time, it could be a reason to come back Ethiopia again :). To be honest, we could come back here and spend three months because Ethiopia is an impressive country anyway….

    Gonder weeding car 🙂

    Our decision we are going to Sudan… After stayed three days in Gondar we tried to hit the road again to Sudan. 🙂 Woke up early morning, got ready and started to ride now we only need petrol. We wanted to carry how much fuel we could carry because we are not sure where we could find petrol in Sudan. After two hours search we could find petrol in Gondar. Lucky day! 🙁

    By the way, Gondar is capital city of Amhara Region. We really so much enjoy there as well like Mekele. Walk on the street day or nighttime; sit anywhere to drink or eat was so nice and comfortable.

    Gonder castle
    You need to know before go to Ethiopia;

    Ethiopia use their own calendar and time. They are 8 years behind us with local calendar. So, I was young when i was there. 🙂 One year is 13 months and last months is 5 or 6 days depend on February. Also, if you ask the hotel when the breakfast starts they could tell you 12. It means 6 am in the morning.

    It was April 2018 when we took the bill from the hotel.

    Hotel in Turmi, Omo Valley

    Ethiopian food is really nice. We can recommend to try local food especially meat.

    Cheap and amazing Ethiopian food.
    Yeshekla Tibs with chicken and meat, Moyale

    Also, their juice are so nice when the weather is so hot or you need to fresh up. Juice are more smooth without ice. You can eat your juice. 🙂

    Avocado and mango juice with lemon, Axum

    Of course Do not miss to drink Ethiopian coffee. You know that Ethiopia is famous with coffee in Africa.

    Traditional Ethiopian coffee

    You always carry extra fuel with you in Ethiopia if you have small tank like our motorcycles Honda CRF 250L. Find petrol doesn’t so hard if they have electricity because the pump work with it. When we were there Ethiopia had electricity problem and cut off a lot. Possible to find on the black market but the cost will be high.

    GS

  • Bad and good experience were together in Kenya

    Bad and good experience were together in Kenya

    Kenya is our 31st country in Africa, we are a bit in a hurry right now. We are still in the rain season and we really want to be ahead of it. We entered Kenya through the Malaba border crossing it took a while because of trucks.

    Our first stop would have been Eldoret,

    Here we can get money from the ATM and we need new fuel. We found a ATM to get money and soon after that we did see a fast food restaurant (KFC), tired and hungry as we where we decided to stop and eat something, as always the taste was disappointed and the price was to high. After our lunch we decided it’s a good idea to start looking for a hotel because sunset would come soon.

    After we left the city we found some hotels, the first few didn’t look good or to good but after 15 km we found a small place what looked nice. We went inside to take a look and found a room for 15 USD including hot shower and Wi-Fi. They have also 10USD room but they said that it has included only one breakfast other one has two and it was much smaller, I think it normally was a single room. 🙂 Good catch for the first day and easy for us, because the next day morning we wanted to ride all the way to Nairobi.

    Stay in Nairobi

    We left after our breakfast and hit the road to Nairobi what was still 300 km, luckily the road was pretty quiet and we made it easy. In Nairobi we where invited to stay with a biker couple, they are following us for a long time now and wanted us to stay with them. This is the beauty from traveling and they are planning a world trip as well. They will leave in July just a few months from now.

    We had some business to do in Nairobi, we needed to get the visa for Ethiopia. This is the hardest one to get on the east coast of Africa. A lot of people had problems to get it but we had our Ethiopian visa in couple of hours. (Ethiopia visa detail)

    Now we got much more relaxed, we stayed a few more days with our new friends and shared a lot of stories. On Friday night Turkish people, who we met in the embassy, living in Nairobi took us out, we always like to see something from the nightlife, we talked and had a good time. After that we stayed with her, Senay, because we didn’t want to ride motorcycle in the dark to turn back.

    When we were talking about our story with Senay she called somewhere. A couple of hours later the news came that we are going to be on the local television. Only thing was that we wanted to leave on Sunday. So that’s a bit short time. On Saturday she made phone calls and sorted out an interview with us on Sunday morning.

    Sounds good, let’s do that. We woke up early to get ready, opened the windows and see it was poring down rain. No way, not today! But yes unfortunately it was raining, we said goodbye to our friends who we will meet somewhere again around the world and ride through the poring rain to our interview. It was our first time in front of the camera and it was pretty cool to do 🙂

    After the interview we stayed 1 more night in Nairobi this time with Senay again. Next day, we were on our way.

    Nanyuki and Equator line

    From Nairobi we went to Nanyuki, this will be the last city in Kenya we see before we enter Ethiopia but still 600 km to go. Unfortunately we arrived soaking wet, we are still in the rain season area. After a few attempts we found a nice hotel that was not to expensive, we had a nice bed, warm shower, breakfast and Wi-Fi that’s all we need. Nanyuki is a holiday city for Kenya therefore hotel price are high. They were saying 40-70 USD for basic hotels. So we were happy to find it 25 USD. 🙁

    We also found cheap street food just around the corner, a lot fruits where available and all for local prices we love it! Next day morning we decided to stay one more day, we spent all day in bed writing articles and made a movie to share with you guys.

    We are writing “street food” but you need to know that Kenya doesn’t have any street food because it’s forbidden to cook outside. They have some small places like a little room they must cook in it. Only they sell fruit or vegetable on the street and grilled corn.

    When we were arrive to Nanyuki it was rain therefore we didn’t stop in front of the famous Kenyan equator sign. But we had photo when we were leaving with sun. 🙁

    Samburu National Park…

    We left Nanyuki after breakfast and had a really nice surprise on the road, Nanyuki is next to Mount Kenya (the 2nd highest mountain in Africa) and it was fully showing in the morning, wow very nice to see J today we wanted to go to Samburu, this is a national park and they have a campsite next to it on the river. We hoped to be lucky and maybe see some wildlife, unfortunately this time we where not so lucky nothing to see around. While riding from Nanyuki to Samburu what is only 130 km we did notice it was getting more and more warm, there was no cold wind anymore. We arrived to the Northern Kenya desert climate, from now on it will only get more and more warm.

    When we arrived at Samburu our plan was stay two days there. Because I want to enter the park to see leopard if we are lucky. No way to enter Samburu for us! Motorcycle can’t enter, which we knew that. 70 USD enter fee for 24 hours and half day rent a car 100 USD, full day 200 USD. What is this? Stay in a park to see some wild life and pay 340 USD and accommodation inside for 24 hours. So, we stayed next to the park for 1 night and then left.

    We stuck Marsabit.

    After Samburu the road only got more beautiful, first we passed the Ololokwe Mountain this is a beautiful rock with different colors.

    Also we passed a lot of people walking next to road from the Samburu tribe, they are all very nice dressed up. We stopped at one of the village/houses but we couldn’t communicate. They have their own language and body language didn’t work well. They were friendly we spent a little time with kids and than we hit the road again.

    And it only got better, since a long time later we saw camels again. Hundreds of them next to the road, after a while I told her I see giraffe’s, she didn’t believe and thought I was joking it must be camels. Because she loves to play a game when the road boring; she can say for donkey a zebra, big cow is baby elephant, big dog is lion… etc. So, you can imagine why she was thinking that it could be a camel not giraffe. But no, I wasn’t joking. There where about 12 giraffe’s just next to the road and crossing the road straight in front of us, this is really giving you the ‘WOW! Feeling’.

    We arrived at a guesthouse where we were planning to stay. A Turkish company was working there and they have an extra house to stay for us. It was amazing for us to get a little rest, meet new people. We went there for two days but stayed more than 10 days because we were waiting the Ethiopian news when and how we can enter. Everyday we were saying each other to leave tomorrow but there was coming new messages that it was not a good idea pass the next day. So we waited, waited, waited almost two weeks. When we were staying there she was waiting next to the chicken to have eggs for breakfast. We ate a lot of Turkish food that she really missed; also I start to like it more and more.

    Tried to go Lake Turkana was a terrible experience for us!

    When we were waiting to pass the Moyale border we decided to go for a little road trip, go to Lake Turkana and pass the Sibiloi National Park to Ethiopia. But everybody was telling us DO NOT TRY! Because of the rain season. North of Kenya side has a lot of river crossing and it’s a very remote area. We can’t find petrol in 600 km, find water or food is problem also if anything happened nobody around to help. We can listen them to don’t pass to Ethiopia from Lake Turkana but we could go to Loiyangalani for a couple of day to see Lake Turkana. We were waiting in Marsabit so just have fun….We put all our bags in the guess house. We took our camping stuff, enough water and petrol and hit the road.

    First, we went to Laisamis to South Horr after that our plan was keep continue to Loiyangalani but we couldn’t. 🙁 The road was quite ok with gravel, sometimes hard and sometimes with soft sand.

    After turned to the Lake Turkana road we had the first river crossing in 25 km. It was fun to pass.

    We ride 30 or 35 km later we came another river crossing. Yeap, we passed it as well. It was deeper then the first one. We were talking; “If we come another river, which is deeper than this we should turn back. If the rain comes again we can’t turn back and we will be stuck”

    After the river we saw a local person who we suppose one of the Samburu tribe. He couldn’t walk well and he was so tired. We help him to go next village. And we kept continue to our road.

    Until two guys attack us with big knife for money. 🙁 It was soft sand and a lot of camel around. We were waiting them to cross and took some picture.

    We didn’t see somebody around. He was trying to pass soft sand. Same time we saw two guys was running to us. They came next to me and one of them was telling, “ All area is mine, the road is mine. Pay 500.” I wanted to move but he took out his knife and blocks the road. He was looking where he can cut it. Ferry was screaming to I have to run to me but if I do that I know he will run to Ferry and will have a big problem. Another guy was more relax and calm, especially after see women rider he didn’t want to do anything. After that he tried to keep the guy and that moment Ferry was just behind me. So, we could open the gas together and leave.

    It was enough experience for us in 100 km on the Lake Turkana road. We decided to turn back. We saw in the night it was good choose to turn back because of the rain, which was like a shower and didn’t stop for hours. Everywhere got like a lake where we were staying, so we ride around, couldn’t make it to Lake Turkana and had our own lake around us 😉

    Leaving Kenya. Do we need to pay road tax now?

    Finally, we leave from Marsabit after two weeks later we were on the road again to Ethiopia. We woke up very early to ride because we had 290 km to the border and we know that Ethiopia border closes on lunchtime. So we must be there before lunch to exit Kenya and enter Ethiopia.

    We were so lucky with the weather. 🙁 The day started with foggy, we were riding so close but almost it was impossible to see each other. After that it was rain. So, we arrived the border almost 2 pm. It was good because Moyale border close between 12 pm to 2 pm.

    When we were in the customer service of Kenya They said that we have to pay 20 USD road tax for each motorcycles. We were planning to stay in Kenya only two weeks, so we didn’t pay road tax. But we stayed almost a month so it was time to pay. We explained our situation why we couldn’t come to the border. Of course they know what was the problem because it happened at the border town. They were really so friendly and helpful. They told us we can pass and we don’t need to pay the road tax. It is gift from them….

    GS

  • We had another incredible experience in Uganda.

    We had another incredible experience in Uganda.

    We applied EAVT visa to Uganda. We wrote to the form when we would enter the country but we wanted to go earlier than the date. No problem… After approval the visa it doesn’t matter date for the East African visa. We entered Uganda from Gatuna / Katuna border. Just one thing keep in your mind everything is negotiable in Uganda 🙂

    First stop Lake Bunyonyi

    They told us Lake Bunyonyi is most beautiful lake in Uganda also in Africa. Listen people, go there and see with your eyes.

    Most beautiful place to see in UgandaWe found a nice place next to the lake. Negotiate started for camping 10 USD, 8 USD, 7 USD…etc we paid 5 USD pppn. J The lake is so big and has a lot of little islands in it. We went on boat tour but if you want to see how beautiful the lake is you need to go up the hill to the see landscape. We don’t know if Lake Bunyonyi is best lake in Africa but it is really amazing.

    The village has little local market, some shops and restaurant as well but all price you need to ask first. How much “chapatti”? One says 1000 other says 500. Depend on who is selling. Some people think we are tourist we can pay more. So ask first the price!

    must to see in uganda

    We finished the day in a Police Station!

    After staying two days next to the lake we hit the road again but not for Kampala. We would like to see local life, villages, mountain roads and landscape. We started to ride almost noon there for when we arrived to Kanungu it was already getting late and the rain was on the door because there where just black clouds around.

    The road condition is not good for the rain therefore we started to look a hotel to spend the night in Kanungu but we couldn’t find anything with secure parking. We were just following the signs to find something one motorcycle was behind me and trying to stop me. I didn’t want to because I had no idea who he was. He passed me and blocked my road. That moment Ferry was already around the corner so no option to see me what was happening. I told him from intercom “Don’t go so far, somebody blocking my road.” And than I saw he has a uniform, which was look like military uniform. After that I saw his motorcycle, which was writing ‘police’. I told him “Don’t panic, he is a police.”

    The police was asking where we are going because which road we took dead end. We told him to looking a place to stay tonight safe for motorcycles and us. He didn’t say anything more after a while he said that we can’t ride around like that we must follow him. We didn’t understand what was going on but we followed him.

    We arrived to a police station. He told us that don’t put motorcycle in parking area put inside the station. When we entered there was a small door. We just fit with our side bags. We parked them next to cells 🙂

    and than we started to talk with another police officer and told our stories where we started, how long we are in Africa, why we were there…etc. After that we showed our passports. They were so friendly and happy to find us. We put our motorcycles in the station after a while we leaved from there with three police officers to walk through the village to look a hotel for us. We went to biggest hotel in Kanungu, which is so new, nice and big. They told for the price 15 USD. Maybe, if we go alone we could take tourist price, we have no idea.

    When they were leaving we asked them here is safe to walk around because it was only far 15 km from DRC border. DRC is one of our best country which kind of experience we had but always nice to ask because every part of the country is different. They said that no problem here we could go out any time.

    After we had a shower we went out to walk around and find a place for dinner. It is a small town or maybe city and it has amazing views. People were so friendly and shy. If we didn’t start a conversation they never started. Funny thing was, everybody knows us, where we are staying and how we entered the town.  We found some good street food, which we always like to eat and try. We bought some food and than turned back the room. We had a really good night.

    Next day, we went to police station again, took some photo’s with the police and than left. We went to the same street food place to eat our breakfast, which is called “Rolex”. They make chapatti bread and than two eggs with some tomato and cabbage, rolling inside the chapatti. Therefore “Rolex” name comes from roll eggs. 🙂

    We entered Queen Elizabeth NP free with our motorcycle to see wildlife again.

    After Kanungu we ride to Ishasha and than we saw a sign “Queen Elizabeth National Park welcome to wildlife.” We were looking the map to figure out where we are. Because we didn’t want to end up paying a lot of enter fee or middle of the road somebody could tell us to we have to turn back. But nobody around.

    So, we kept continue and started to see some deer’s, warthogs, impala’s. We came a door on our left hand. We went to talk with the rangers. They told that we are on the main road and it is the only road to Katunguru. So we don’t need to pay for it. If we want to go next to Lake Edward we must pay enter fee.

    They told us be careful because they have animals everywhere. We heard before Ishasha is very famous for tree climb lions. The ranger said that lions climb to fig trees where next to the lake but if it is so hot and no rain. He just went there but didn’t see any lions. It means they move more up and could be anywhere.

    After all info we said thank you and keep continue to ride and see something. We saw far away lions, some elephants and buffalos. We stopped before a couple of times but after we saw them we decided to don’t stop just keep continue because we didn’t know what can jump in front of our wheels. 🙂

    We saw very dark clouds were coming. (It means heavy rain) And we saw buffalos were passing our road. We didn’t want to get close to them because we didn’t know their behavior if we keep continue to ride. And the rain started to go crazy, no option to sit on the motorcycle and wait them to pass.

    We jumped from motorcycle and covered our bags with one of the footprints. With the other footprint we covered our self. We were looking behind it and thinking if lion pass here now or come face to face what we could do. We can’t run away or jump motorcycles.

    We have no idea what happened to us because we are not scared anymore from wildlife we are more scared from human if they want to attack us (Maybe you remember how they attack us middle of the street in Namibia 🙁 ) We slept next to hippos, elephants also came face to face with rhinos. Some times we heard lions in the night or here something walking next to our tent in the night but wildlife/animals don’t attack directly. They are warning you if you respect them they respect you. It is unbelievable.

    Anyway, we stayed there almost one hour to wait for the rain to pass and buffalos of course. They didn’t move so fast from the road because after the rain started the potholes had water on the road, so they were enjoying drinking water. 🙂

    We started to ride 10 am in the morning and arrived to Katunguru just before sunset. It was only 117 km but it took us 8 hours. So, you can imagine how much we were enjoying riding and seeing animals on the road. 🙂 We went to one camping site there. They said 10 USD pppn but we paid 5 USD each. Nice thing was they have a roof, perfect for us if it rains we can collect everything next day morning dry.

    Before off the dark they made a fire. We didn’t understand why when it is so hot. They said that it is because of lions. How can we believe that? We are next to a village and people live with lions! On the other hand Queen Elizabeth NP doesn’t have a fence around so animals can be anywhere.

    Hot or cold, campfire is always nice. I just sat next to it and was waiting him to come. I heard something from the bush and some animal run but I didn’t see well because of the dark. After that we heard to lions. They can be 100 meters far or 2 km. when they roar you can hear it like you are next to them. I was screaming to him “ Please carry pepper spray when you are coming to the campfire.” It wasn’t comfortable to sit there so long with all sounds and you can’t figure out what they have behind the bush. When we were in the tent I heard something middle of the night but I didn’t want to go out, of course. In the morning we saw elephant shit close to the tent. It is just wildlife right!

    Plans can change anytime on the road!

    Our plan was go to Murchison Falls NP after that Sipi falls, ride motorcycle around Mount Elgon and than pass Kenya from the Suam border. But we didn’t because of rain season. It was rain almost every afternoon. One of our dreams is to see the Low Omo Valley in Africa. We can visit there until middle of March. Therefore we skipped a lot of things in Uganda.  But we didn’t go to Murchison Falls National Park also for another reason. Because of the national park fee for us, motorcycles and we didn’t see what we could see. It was a lot of money for us. We were fine with our experience in Queen Elizabeth.

    We left from Katunguru and went to Fort Portal. We found a camping site middle of the city, which was so peaceful and quite. That moment we were sitting and watching some cows after wildlife. 🙂 After a little search we decided to go Jinja where we can see the source of the Nile River from there we can enter Kenya.

    Next day early morning we were on the road to Kampala. And we passed equator line. It means we enter again winter season. 🙂 We made 280 km and we were just looking around to find a hotel before Kampala because we don’t like capital cities with all the traffic.

    At the same time we were so tired because I had flat tire, it was first time for me in Africa to i had it. So, it could be so much for us to stuck in the traffic. We were lucky to find a nice hotel with nice food and it was 20 USD for a room with terrace and living room, of course include breakfast. 🙂

    They stole our tent bag from a very secure camping site in Jinja!

    We went to Jinja to stay at a beautiful campsite right at the source of the river Nile the place was very nice and had amazing views; we ended up staying 2 nights.

    When we wanted to leave early in the morning we figured our 1 of our bags was missing. We looked everywhere but nowhere to find. The campsite had security 24/7 and they where actually pretty close to where we put up our tent. we have no clue who stole our bag but we never see it back.

    Now we don’t have our tent bag anymore, luckily this is the smallest bag we carry and we can still put our tent somewhere else but we are missing a few things as well, especially our 6 liter water bag we needed that for the hot in Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt. We will now carry bottles again. 🙁

    After a late departure to try and find the bag, leave our details at the campsite we left and continued our road to Kenya.

    GS

  • Great country Rwanda to ride motorcycle

    Great country Rwanda to ride motorcycle

    We arrived Rusumo falls, Rwanda-Tanzania, border. We were thinking enter Rwanda is free in 2018, no visa fee any more because we read some news about it. Also we looked to their page but it wasn’t very clear. We figured out on the border that Rwanda changed visa rules 2018 for only visa for arrival therefore we paid and enter Rwanda (visa detail on the arrival) Please remember that Rwanda is also in EATV visa.

    We were thinking, we would be riding a good tar road and arrive at the capital city, Kigali so fast. We ride dirt road first 100 km. fully dust than we arrived Kigali.

    The capital city was look like so organize and clean. Because the country doesn’t use plastic bags and they always clean everywhere. Also, Rwanda has one rule for ride motorcycles we haven’t seen any of other African countries, expect Namibia and South Africa. Not only motorcycle taxi drivers has to use helmet, customer has to use a helmet as well and they can’t carry more than one customer. 🙂

    We just stayed one night in Kigali and next day we arrived Gisenyi which town is next to Goma, DRC. Why were we riding so fast in Rwanda? Because, we booked our Gorillas adventure and climb Nyiragongo Lava Lake in Virunga Park, DRC.

    We so much enjoyed riding between Kigali and Gisenyi because of the mountain roads where amazing with corners and altitude to go up and down. People were also so nice as well. They were so interest and curios to talk with us. We visited some villages on the road and also went to a bazaar to buy fruits.

    When we were in Kigali we were thinking everything is really expensive in Rwanda because of supermarket prices. But buy something on the street or village bazaar wasn’t like that. Of course water is a little expensive because I suppose only tourist want to buy it. 🙂

    After stay 3 days in DRC we turn back Rwanda and stayed in Gisenyi one day more. Lake Kivu is very famous in Rwanda, which they called holiday beach in Rwanda. We couldn’t enjoy that much because of rain season, we had most of time dark clouds and rain.

    We are not lucky on the east cost of Africa because we didn’t come on correct season, just wet season started. Therefore we didn’t want to spend so much time in Rwanda. But of course before leave from the country we decided to go a little inland and leave from main road. So, we saw the amazing face of Rwanda, landscape and dirt mountain road was wonderful. We end up the day in Byumba. We found a little local motel, which was 10 USD and enjoyed with cheap local food.

    Next day we were on the Katunga border to pass Uganda. We stayed in Rwanda only 5 days. We can tell that if you stay touristic area hotels and food will be expensive. If you have your own vehicle just leave main roads and enjoy with Rwandan landscape and local food.

    GS

  • To be a overlander, backpacker, tourist… in Tanzania

    To be a overlander, backpacker, tourist… in Tanzania

    To be honest, we couldn’t enjoy that much in Tanzania because of people behavior or had a lot of problem on the road with our motorcycles.

    First stop was Tukuyu

    Border crossing took almost two hours because of paper works. We just leaved from the border the rain and wind started to go crazy. We were going to Tukuyu which was 50 km from the border therefore we didn’t bother the rain that much and we got totally wet.

    We stayed in a little village where they made a little camping next to an old school garden. We changed closed set up the tent and played with the kids for a while. The night was cold, foggy and so much humid. I couldn’t sleep well because I suppose I got cold and my stomach wasn’t good. In the morning, we were planning to see “The bridge of God” and “Ngozi Crater Lake” but we skipped it and decided to go Mbeya to find a hotel to get rest and change the clutch pads from my motorcycle.

    So hard to understand people sometimes

    We arrived to Mbeya and find a nice African style hotel. We just entered and started to rain again. That moment we were lucky. J A couple of hours later, the rain stopped and we went out to find a place to work on our motorcycles. Land Rover service was so friendly. They told us “Come here and work. We like to help you.” Next day, we went there to work on the motorcycle but couldn’t finish in a day because we never change clutch pads before. Everything went good but the clutch wasn’t good. The mechanic guy, from Land Rover, called his friend to look motorcycle who knows motorcycle well. Of course not! We opened and closed many times my motorcycle after that he said just tied to cable from clutch. Fine, we already know that! They told us our motorcycle could stay there because they have security and safe.

    Next day, we went back closed all parts of motorcycle and got ready to leave. When we were saying bye and thank you to help they said that we must pay for mechanic. Pardon! They said that they don’t charge for night parking but that wanted 60.000 TSH because we worked there. Also, we must pay 60.000 TSH to motorcycle mechanic who came and look…. Are you crazy? He didn’t do anything. We were really surprised because when we were in Western Africa people were really helpful when we asked them how much we need to pay, they were getting upset about it because they want to help not for the money.  

    After barging about the price we paid 60.000 TSH only and than we left there. Before leave from Mbeya we went to the local bazaar to buy some fruit and got ready to hit the road. They were looking us and saying more than double price. Before Tanzania, we never have experience like that in Africa except in Morocco.

    When we were talking each other one person came and told with us friendly and said sorry to people behavior. What he told us we were surprise because “we are white, it means we have a lot of money!”

     Going to Iringa

    Next day morning we woke up and got ready to hit the road. We decided to put everything behind what happened in Mbeya, start again. J

    We were only far 50-60 km from Iringa He said that something happening on his motorcycle, he can’t see total km, time or speed anymore. Everything got disappear. How is that possible! We stopped and turn of-on motorcycle again. Everything was working well only total km wasn’t there anymore. He made 56.500 km but motorcycle was saying he made only 24 km! We couldn’t understand what is going on. Just keep continue to camping site to check motorcycle. Of course so hard to have guess for us how and why total km can turn back zero.

     In the night, the rain started and didn’t stop. It was 11 am when we could leave from the tent. The rain didn’t stop just it was light. We collect everything well before get wet.

    And than he turned on the engine but motorcycle didn’t work. It was look like battery finished. I pushed him two time but we couldn’t turn on the engine. I was already sick and I got more because I got totally wet again when I was trying to push the motorcycle. We wanted help from some people who was working in there. Finally motorcycle worked. After change our clothes we hit the road again. Normally, we were going to Dar Es Salam and than Zanzibar. But we were upset for the motorcycle and we didn’t know how long it would take to fix the problem. We didn’t want to be rain season in Eastern Africa. So, when we were riding and talking on intercom we suddenly changed our road to Dodoma.

    By the way, we paid 10 USD pppn for the camping side, just set up the tent on the grass, no ablution block, hot shower, cooking area….etc also wanted to 2 USD for an hour wifi. Crazy!

    We got a little happy in Dodoma J 

    After one and half hours, we stopped motorcycles to have a break. Our imagination was the battery could be charge in that time. We turn on his engine but didn’t work. I pushed him and than we were on the road again.  We did same thing every break to turn on the engine and than finally we arrived to Dodoma before sunset.  

    We found basic local hotel, which was clean and only 12 USD one room. When you compare to Iringa camping it was nothing with private bathroom and hot shower. Next day we started to search in Dodoma where we can find odometer to calculate volt on the motorcycle. But we couldn’t find anywhere. Our other option was find a charger cable. So, we could start his motorcycle with my motorcycle battery. They had only for car, which is so big for us and it was 15 usd.  We found a little motorcycle shop. We told them what we were looking for. Of course they didn’t have but they were so helpful. I was in front of the shop he went somewhere with another guy to find the cable. They didn’t find but they came back with cables and some other stuff. The guy made for us what we were looking for and didn’t want to take any money from us. It was just help! After a couple of days experience in Tanzania we were surprise for it and happy.  

    overland africa motorcycle

    Actually, people were more friendly in Dodoma and happy to see us in their city. We stayed there two days and than decided to go Arusha where we can find some stuff to fix motorcycle or go to Nairobi from there is only 280 km.  

    I was on the phone and talking with my brother to explain what was going on with the motorcycle. My brother came with an idea. Change the batteries! We couldn’t find odometer so if change the batteries we could understand what is wrong because my motorcycle was working well. If his battery empty I could charge. So, the problem can’t be from his battery. If my battery gets empty means his motorcycle starter relay doesn’t work well.  We can try it!

    Going Arusha became a nightmare for us… 

    We changed the batteries and started to ride. We didn’t stop engines two hours and than had a break time. It was look like his battery dead because when I turned on the engine my motorcycle didn’t work. Also, it was look like a problem with his started relay because his motorcycle didn’t work with my battery. Pushed two motorcycle and ride again to go Arusha. 🙂

    HOnda crf 250 ile dunya turu

    The road was full Masai people and villages but we couldn’t stop. We were just trying to keel continue. L  Last 30 km to Arusha, my motorcycle stop suddenly when I was riding and than turn on engine again. Also I lost my entire panel to see speed, time, km…etc. It means the battery dead. But it was coming sunset and we can’t stay on the high way in the night. After 10 km later, my engine stopped. We were looking where we can go? What we can do? We saw a camping site only 7 km far from us. But I didn’t want to push my motorcycle and try to ride again. Because feeling was my baby suffering with the pain and I don’t want to see it like that. So, we changed to motorcycles. I was riding his motorcycle; he was riding mine. He opened the gas, didn’t stop checkpoints and arrived to the camping site.

    Mario and Lills from indonesia. Wheelstory!

     

    We were so tired and upset. We must find somebody who can help us to go Arusha and fix motorcycles. Our Indonesian friends were there whom we met in Swaziland and travel together in Mozambique. They gave a number to us from Moshi. They already talked with him who name is Sam (The garage Moshi) he was ready to help us. We took his phone number and called him. Sam was upset to here we stuck somewhere and welcome to help.

    Before keep continue to our problem I would like to write about camping side. 10 USD pppn and nothing to give only a grass to set up the tent. Camping sites are so expensive in Tanzania and they don’t have good ablution block and no electricity… etc. We really miss South African campsite. They were amazing and so cheap when you compare to Tanzania.

     In the morning, he took my motorcycle and went to Moshi, which is 100 km from the camping site. At the same time Mario and Lilis (Indonesian couple) came to stay with me. He came back in two hours with one of Sam’s motorcycle and with my battery.

    We put the battery his motorcycles. I ride his motorcycle, he rides Sam’s motorcycle and Mario was riding his motorcycle. J We searched everywhere in Arusha but couldn’t find battery.  After that we went to Sam’s place, which is called The Garage Moshi. He has a garage but at the same time has ‘bed&breakfast’. He has a garage right, so has odometer. J We knew that his battery already dead but we must find the problem why did total km ‘zero’ and why the battery went dead. To be honest, we couldn’t find anything wrong. Look like something happened but passed.

    Sam found a new battery for us from Dar Es Salam and said that somebody brings it to Moshi on the weekend. Means, we must wait 5 days. I wrote before I was sick and couldn’t get rest with all problems. That’s why my body collapsed and I stuck to the bed three days there. I suppose that I wasn’t still well but we decided to climb Kilimanjaro, which was my dream. It is another story and we will write in other article.

    Honda CRF 250 world trip

     When we turned backed from the Kili his battery was arrived to Moshi. We charged it and than went for a test ride. Actually, we went to a Oasis to get enjoy a little. We stayed with Sam total 10 days. He was so nice and we are so happy to have a good friend from Tanzania now.

     We had a lot of funny things there. Sam was going to market and buying a something that is 1.500 TSH. We were going to buy same thing and is 2.000 TSH for us. I don’t want to say more about it J

     What do we want to do more in Tanzania?

     I was planning to go Serengeti when we started to travel on November 2016. Finally we were around Serengeti. But we didn’t go. L It was already the 6th of February and we had only 3 weeks more to travel Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya before go to Ethiopia. The rain season starts middle of March on Lower Omo Valley and we want to visit tribes there. Therefore we must be there latest time 2-3 of March. Also, Serengeti is crazy expensive. Only stay in the park 24 hours is 110 USD (park fee and public camp price only) for each person.  Actually, it was hard decision for us but I told him “We have a reason to come back Tanzania one day to visit Serengeti, Mafia and Zanzibar Islands”

    Bye Tanzania.

    We leaved Moshi and ride trough to Rwanda. It was more than 1000 km. So, it took 3 days for us.  We stayed in Singida,  Nzega and Nyakanazi.  We paid each motel-hotel 7 USD per night. All of them were clean and with private bathroom but no hot shower. They also had their small restaurant and bar so, we ate nice cheap delicious food.

    Budget travel to tanzania

     It was so nice for us to see a little local people behavior in Tanzania who has been living out of the touristic areas.

    Traditional food in Tanzania

     GS

  • Malawi is a holiday country :)

    Malawi is a holiday country 🙂

    We are in Africa more than fifteen mounts and we really wanted to go to Malawi to get rest for a while. We heart a lot about white sand beaches, amazing lake and beautiful Malawian people. To be honest, who says Malawi is beautiful we definitely agree about it.

    Enter Malawi and visit Kasunga

    We arrived Malawi from Chipata, Zambia which was easy border crossing. Also, we apply visa for Malawi in Zambia.

    Easy way to go to Lilongwe first and than visit Lake Malawi. But we choose to ride a little inland and wanted to see around before enjoy with white sands. So, our first stop was Kasunga. We found a small, nice also cheap hotel to stay. We just arrived there and started to crazy rain. We stayed in the hotel and couldn’t do anything. Therefore, we decided to stay one day more to see the village.

    Kasunga, Malawi

    People were so friendly. When we were walking around people was so happy to see us in their village. We went to shopping, talked people, visit bazaar… etc. And we found a nice little restaurant for dinner. Always, possible to find restaurants in the capital city or big cities but so hard to find in a little village. It was really nice taste.

    Kasunga, Malawi

    Most people are cycling in Malawi. Some is good for it but some doesn’t. So you need to be careful when you ride or drive. Suddenly, they can be in front of you. They also use the bicycle as a taxi (including number plate).

    Ride motorcycle in Nkhotakota national park:)

    After Kasunga we were going to lake Malawi to find a place to stay a while. We came to a door that was closed and writing “you are entering wildlife reserve.” We were surprised because we didn’t know that the road goes directly through a national park. The security came and opened the door with a big smile. He told us that it is Nkhotakota national park and we have to pass in it because the road passes there. And he was explaining us they have a lot of big elephants on the road. Lion could be anywhere. So, we can’t stop we must keep on riding.

    rider around world

    Interesting! Until Malawi, any national park never allowed to us go in. Now we must pass. J Already we had rain and the road it’s not a tar road. We learned that it’s a good gravel road and we can go easily. Of course, I don’t want to get stuck in the soft sand and say ‘HELLO’ to a lion.

    Ok; don’t stop just go and than when arrive to exit say the security to call we arrive safely. Which he told us, he must know we finish the road or not.

    It was 35 km and took an hour. Because, we didn’t ride so fast. J Our one side was saying ‘see a lion can be amazing’, other side was saying ‘are you crazy? What can you do if you see one in front of you’ End of the road we saw some Elephants and buffalos also baboons.

    can you ride in national parks Africa to see wildlife

    When we arrived at the exit door she was smiling and saying we are late. Who open the door for us to enter the park he already called her and ask if we arrived or not.

    We like the rain or hate the rain! 

    When we were in the park the rain was already started. And than it was a crazy shower. We couldn’t find any place to stop and we had to ride 100 km to find a gas station. We were totally wet and didn’t know what we should do. It pass one hour but the rain didn’t want to stop.

    We learned that if we go to Kande bay we could find a little cheap place to stay. If you want to go a place, which is popular of course room price are not cheap. When we arrived to Kande bay He went to the reception to learn the prices and I was looking around. I saw some camping site has roof and weather was wet but not cold. So, we can camp as well and get everything dry. He came back and said that shared bathroom is 35 USD, it is to expensive for us. I showed him the camping site, we could stay there no problem. The price was 7 USD pppn. Better than room price and we can eat dinner as well because we can’t pass our daily budget. 🙂

    We stayed two days to dry all our clothes and enjoy a day with the lovely white beach. But we didn’t want to pass New Year’s eve there.

    When we were going to Nkhata Bay we met a American couple (Chris and Kathleen) on the road. It was raining so we couldn’t talk that much but we a had break together at the gas station. We decided to go to the same place and talk about journey.  All night we share our experiences and told about Colorado. 🙂

    Where can we go now, tomorrow is New Year eve!

    We came to Malawi to get rest and enjoy. Therefore we wanted to stay in a room on the beach but we must find something in the budget. We knew that Nkhata Bay is so famous and prices are not cheap. We decided to stay in a room for two days after that stay in our home (tent J) It could be fine if we could be next to a beach.

    We ride 50 km and arrived Nkhata Bay but all nice places were full who was empty wanted 45-50 USD per night. We were really upset and disappointed. We didn’t know what could do. We ride 30 km more to Mzuzu but nothing around. We stopped and started to talk. I was going to cry. Not because of only we didn’t find a place for new year eve because of after 15 months in Africa something can be so much to handle it.

    La exotica lodge, kanda bay, malawi

    We decided to go back around Kande Bay to stay next to the beach. So we turn back all the way. End of the day, we made 160 km but we were same point where we started. 🙂 We saw a sign to La Exotica. Why not, just try! We went there and find a nice room include breakfast for 28 usd and private bathroom. Of course we booked it for three days and enjoyed our New Year eve.

    Nkhata Bay is really nice stop.

    Finally we arrived to Nkhata bay and went to Mayoko Village. We booked a room before when we went the first time for two days. It was 35 USD with share bathroom. It is really nice place and chalet was ok. We just sat on the balcony and enjoy with the view to rest. Two days passed so fast. We decided to stay a couple of days more because it was so nice. We just set up the tent and the rain started crazy way.

    We couldn’t move to the tent and some tent was like in the lake in 10 minutes. He went to reception to say we were going to the tent but waiting for rain to check out. No way to rain going to stop. 30 minutes later, she came to us, who work in the reception, said that we could stay in the room with camping price, which is 10 USD. We were really so surprise and happy. The owner didn’t want to we stay in the tent when the rain was like that. We stayed another six day there. We could eat every day dinner in the restaurant, went to boat trip, swim…etc. It was wonderful.

    Going Mzuzu.

    After eight days enjoy in Nkhata Bay we went to Mzuzu, which is just 50 km far. We must shop because we didn’t have any food. Just finished to shopping and started to rain again. The rain season is really crazy here, please keep in your mind. We decided to stay one night. And met Paul who is from Kenya and has been working more than a year in Malawi. He wrote us on our blog, Facebook to if we go to Mzuzu he wanted to meet us and buy us dinner. We met him and passed lovely evening. Talk a lot about Kenya and our trip. Also we ate so nice dinner.

    Next day, we woke up with rain and didn’t stop until noon. So, stay one night more and see what would happen next day. We made our mattress like a seat in the tent became a cinema room for us. Just enjoy with movie what else could we do more with rain.

    riders around the world

    The owner, who is from Italy and ex-overlander, couldn’t sleep last night well because he was thinking about us how we could manage the rain. So, he told us we could pass to a chalet with same price. Yeap, we did. It was amazing to see how much owners are friendly and helpful in Malawi.

    Nice view from Mushroom farm if you can go.

    We learned that one of the highlights in Malawi is camping up the mountain at the Mushroom farm, here you are just next to the cliff with an amazing view over the lake. Also we learned that the road towards it is extremely bad. As we told you before we are in the middle of the rain season in Malawi.

    After the rain in Mzuzu we where a little scared about the road, would it be doable for us? We ride 140 km from Mzuzu to the turn to Livingstonia, where our road started. We only had a little bit of rain on the road but when we arrived the sun was shining, so we decided to go up. We ride a couple of 100 meters up the hill when her motorcycle decided to not ride uphill anymore! Wow, this was a shock, this is not good. We decided to go back down, as it was impossible to go up, we needed to find a place to camp at the lake. We found a nice place called ‘Hakuna Matata Camp’ owned by a old South African called Willie.

    Our problem with the motorcycle is the clutch pad, we knew this was coming at one point and now we needed to change it as soon as possible. Unfortunately Malawi is not a real motorcycle country and when staying at the beach near the lake there is no clean place to work. So we decided to go towards Tanzania as soon as possible. Here we can find a place to do the work and if we need we can find someone to help us.

    Last stop in Malawi before leave…

    From there we stopped once more in Malawi at the Flouja Foundation Camp, this is a school run by a Dutch couple. It was a nice place at the beach again and for us very nice, the first place in Malawi with free Wi-Fi. We enjoyed the place when it was not raining and made our self ready for a new adventure in Tanzania, this time including a big technical issue on the motorcycle…

    Just a small note about our feeling; We have passed 27 countries in Africa until now. If we look a country to live in Africa it can be Malawi. If you ask where can we leave in Malawi? We can tell around Lake Malawi.

    GS-FS

  • Travel around Zambia

    Travel around Zambia

    We were planning to go to Livingstone from the Zimbabwe part of the Victoria Falls but we couldn’t get the Kaza visa, we had only Zimbabwean visa, which was single entry. So, we travel in Zimbabwe to see how the country looks like and how people life is. After we entered to Zambia.

    Going Lusaka…

    We passed into Zambia from the Kariba lake border. And ride trough to Lusaka. We must go there because of the Malawi visa for her. We rode 200 km from the border. Everywhere was green and landscape was nice. But it was so hard to ride inside to city center because of the crazy traffic. We broke all rules to escape from rush hour because it wasn’t fun to wait one hour in the traffic with all our motorcycle gears when it was so hot.

    Lusaka is definitely different then other African countries capital cities. First of all clean and it is safe to walk around, we didn’t need to check our back all the time. We stayed in Wanderes Backpacker, which was so close to the Embassies and a big shopping center. And cheap for camping 🙂

    To be honest, we didn’t do that much in Lusaka. We were tired after our Zimbabwe journey and all the rain we had. Therefore, we prefer just get relax and enjoy with good Wi-Fi. 🙂

    Happy birthday One ROad One World….

    Nice to see Mpongwe, North/East of Zambia. 

    A while ago, we got an invitation from someone who is living in Mpongwe and is building a primary school. Jennifer is from Holland. She was there a long time for a voluntary job and than decided to stay there and help the comity. After that she got married with a Zambian guy, Terry.

    Mpongwe wasn’t on our road. We had to go 300 km to the north of Zambia and turn back to Lusaka. On the other hand, we love to see local life, learn a little culture and talk with local people. So, we went there.

    It is small village but they have everything there. We were saying that Lusaka is so cheap after Zimbabwe but Mpongwe is cheaper than Lusaka. We set up our tent inside a classroom. The school was going to be open in three weeks so, nobody was there yet. 🙂 We ate dinner with Jenifer and Terry. Of course, we asked many questions to Jenifer about her life, education, culture…etc . We also walked around with her to see around, talk with people and play with kids. It was a really nice experience for us for two days.

    After said bye to them, we turned back to Lusaka and stayed at same place again. We made 600 km in 3 days. That’s why we decided to stay two days there to get rest and do some shopping. The Malawi border is than 600 km from Lusaka; we need to go bush camp somewhere. At the same time, if the rain comes a lot there is a possibility to we can’t finish the road in two days. We always want to be sure that we have enough water and food for that.

    Really we are going to Malawi!

    We packed our motorcycles and hit the road. In the morning it was nice to ride motorcycle but in the afternoon It was hot. Anyway we made 290 km before sunset. We found a spot for bush camping next to the road and we set up the tent and slept well.

    Next day, we would ride only 280 km to the border. We came to Chipata and we had only 20 km to the Malawi border. We were putting petrol our tanks and talking at the same time.

    GS :“ We are living the county now. But I am thinking we didn’t see that much.”

    FS: “ What would like to do more here. We are almost on the border.”

    GS: “ Maybe, We can go to Mfuwe and stay around South Luangwa National Park. We don’t need to go inside. We can camp next to the river and see wild life a little more.”

    FS: “Are you sure, you want to do that?” He looked to map and told me that we have 130 km more to go there.

    GS: I looked the time it was 1.40 pm. “So we don’t need to stay Chipata. Let’s go know Mfuwe.”

    We were on the road 6 hour already and made 260 km. Another 130 km means, we made almost 400 km in a day with our Honda CRF 250 L. We have 250 cc so; we don’t go more than 80-90 km per hour. 130 km for us 2,5 hour more ride with crazy sun. He was thinking about me if it’s a good idea to ride more. I told him I can make it. So, we turn to Mfuwe road.

    ****Normally, if you ride or drive from Lusaka to The North or South Luangwa Natioanl Park you have two option to drive. First one, From Sinda to Kapamba and than Kakumbi (Mfuwe) It is some kind of gravel and dust road but don’t take the road in the rain season. Because road is going really terrible condition. Second option, from Chipata to Kakumbi which is tar road and easy to ride in rain season. Just be careful with potholes.******

    Luangwa national park and Mfuwe.

    Mfuwe is a small village but you can find basic things to buy. They have a lot of Lodges and camping sites around. We went to Wildlife camping.

    The place is next to Luangwa river and you have a good chance to see wild life next to you. Elephants were next to the reception also they passed from our camping side. Hippos and crocodiles were everywhere. Every night we heard lions. 🙂

    We don’t go so much national park because they never allow us to go in with our motorcycles. We must pay a lot of money for a safari and enter fee. We already see a lot. So, don’t spend money! But our neighbor in the tent was Forest from the USA and working in Harare, Zimbabwe. He is an international math teacher. He was going to the park and said that we can join him so we only need to pay enter fee, which is 30 USD pppd. It was good deal for us.

    We didn’t see leopard but we saw what’s the meaning of a national park. We went to Etosha and Kruger park before. They were so organize with roads, rest side, camping side… etc. Here just jungle. They don’t have fence around as well. If rain season most of the park area is closed.   After see the park we saw why, easily. So, if you want to visit the park in the rain season you should be careful with the road.

    Luangwa is nice and really big park to visit. Maybe good idea is to be there June to October. Because it is dry season and more chance to see leopards. Because in the rain season the bushes are so high. Maybe, you are passing next to a lion or leopard but you can’t see it. On the other hand, it is so nice to see the park so much green.

    After stayed three days in The wildlife camping we turned back to Chipata to go Malawi.

    GS