We went St. Louis first and stayed Zebra bar for stay a couple of days. We went to old colonial area which is pretty nice to see.
St Louis old city center
After that we ride to Lake Rose. But we couldn’t lucky to see the lake color is rose. We arrived there in the night and live noon. The color comes with reflection from salt and sun. So good time is afternoon.
Lake Rose, Senegal
Next stop was Dakar. We went there to apply some visas, shopping and see the city. The traffic is crazy in the week time but highway is good option to enter the city. First we wanted to walk around but after a while we couldn’t. It was so hot, asphalt was burning, we were feeling easily from our feet. 🙁 You can use taxi there but need to barging. We tried some local minibus which can chance their road easily and can say this is last stop. Some local markets are really nice. But the city didn’t so special for us. Goree island one of the most attraction for tourist in Dakar. We went there asw ell to see island and museum.
Goree Island, Dakar, Senegal
We were planning to travel all Casamance regions in Senegal in the beginning but everything can change last minute on the road. We went to south/west of Casamance.
We ride motorcycle Ziguinchor to Nikine. Went to some little villages and stayed in Elinkine Camp, Elinkine.
People are so curios and friendly on the region. When you stop to take a photo or break time. They can stop next to us and talk. Or ask about something wrong on our motorcycle or with us.
Bouyouye :
We like the little village, Bouyouye. They were surprise when we arrived to the village. They asked us ‘ what are we doing here? The road doesn’t going anywhere.’ We told them just we ride here to see village. After a little talk they said welcome and we can enter the village.
They have max.30 houses in the village and most of them family. They are living between huge trees. We saw some traditional houses. Tried to talk local people. We shared our cookies with kids and played with them. Kids didn’t see tourist around. Maybe one house has a television. So, in the beginning they didn’t want to get closed to us. You need to be patience and show how much you are friendly. It could help for me but not for Ferry. When they looked his eyes they could scare, maybe because of colorful eyes. Who is living in the village they were so friendly people.
Elinkine :
Elinkine is one of the best places in Casamance region to stay. Where the camp is like a paradise. You can go to boat trip to see crocodile and beautiful landscape.
Casamance Region, Senegal
It is a small village. If you are walking around everyday and staying long they know you after two days later. Kids have been learning English in the school and so curios to talk with you. We were helping them to improve their English a little how much we know.
2-3 days later, I told with kids and I wanted to go to the school for see and learn something more about education. When I went to school first we found to English teacher to communicate because I cant speak French. He was in the lesson. We told a little with him and kids in the lesson. After that, we went to the school manager for permission to enter all lessons. I went math class. They learn different way than us how we learn math.
The weather is so hot. Therefore, They go to school in the morning until 11-12 pm. After that go back 4pm. They have standard uniform. Classrooms are sandy and they don’t have a real sit. Maybe they don’t have money to buy uniform, notebooks…etc. They want to go to school and learn which is really perfect.
We have been traveling around to world by motorcycle, living in the tent and always cooking ourself so it was important for us to have easy camping cooking equipment. What we have been using long time and how much we are happy about it?
Lets start Camp Packing Tips to Easy Camping Cooking;
Camping Stove : MSR WhisperLite International Stove
We bought ‘MSR WhisperLite International Stove’. Actually, We were looking for dragonfly model but we decided to buy last minute and we found WhisperLite. We bought it in Turkey and paid 100 USD with 330 ml. gas bottle. We choose small bottle because of the space on the motorcycle. We have been taking petrol from our motorcycle tank, no problem. 🙂 After camping gas cooker We saw that life is so easy with MSR stove. We have been using more than a year WhisperLite only we had filter problem and we fix it. Of course, we don’t forget to clean.
Why did we choose it? Who we know or met on the road before we bought our stove They told us same brand and smilier stove. We were in Africa 1,5 years and the stove made our life so easy to cooking. Also, we never think where we can find fuel.
We also buy MSR little camping set to have cut board.
Camping Plates : Light My Fire
When I saw ‘Light My Fire’ for plates and mugs I like them a lot. I don’t know maybe because of the color, shape, light or small. And we had a set. Plates, mugs and spoon-knife-fork together. More then two years, we have been using them and we are so happy to have it.
Light my fires mugs are foldable therefore they gets so small. We were carrying them sometimes in our motorcycle jacket because we never know when we will use it.
Cooking Pots : Trangia Tundra
It was hardest one to decide what we want to have for cooking must be light, easy clean, get hot fast and don’t spend so much fuel also not expensive. When all combinations together it is hard to find one. After search a while we bought Trangia Tundra 1 cooking set. We surprise that it has all what we were looking. More than a year we have been using Trangia I suppose we will use minimum two years more.
Cooler :
We bought a cooler in West Africa, which is 4.75 lt. The weather is so hot. The water can boil in a couple of hours when we ride. I didn’t want to drink water like that. We are so happy to have it. Put a little ice on it and drink all day cold water. If you are like me I can recommend you that look a small electricity cooler for motorcycle. You can be happy! I have been still looking for it. If you have one please tell me details.
We have been traveling around the world by motorcycle and sleeping in a tent so, camping comfortably is one of the important thing for us. Because we are living in our tent.
After many hours ride we want to sleep well. When the weather so bad we must stay in the tent and make more comfortable in. If we go to hiking camping stuff need to be light. So, if we make the tent our house the camping comfortably is really important. We start to search everything light, easy use, long term warranty and comfort.
In this article we are writing about our sleeping pad. If you like to quick check all our world trip camping equipment you should check our all camping gears please.
You can watch little video how we have learned to live in a tent 🙂
Sleeping in tent comfortably : One of the important thing for it is sleeping pad.
For it we bought ‘Thermarest NeoAir XLite Mattress’ and paid 165 USD each of it. Actually, i was thinking a lot of money in the beginning. Because also I bought the “Thermarest trekker chair” is 50 USD each of them and “Thermarest pump sack” is 20 USD.
What is our Thermarest Neoair Xlite review ?
Thermarest neoair xlite is three season mattress, so light (500 grams) and the pack size is so small (28x11cm). Still, I dont know how I can understand 2-3-4 season mattress. If the weather is under 15 degrees I always feel cold. Because of tent, mattress or sleeping bag. 🙂
After all day hiking, carry backpack, ride motorcycle I just want to sleep comfortable and feel I am in the real bed. Neoair xlite really good for that.
The material is sturdy. I had one little hole in 2.5 years. Because of the barbed trees. Who open the tent there had same problem 🙁
They have size option which is good. I choose a large size to have more space to turn and sleep well. This was a good choice.
When I was buying the camping mattress I didn’t think so much about the shape. Mine has a mummy shape. If you are back sleeper you can think that it doesn’t have enough space for my feet. I didn’t have problem for it because of my tall (170 cm) and large sleeping pad. The problem is for couple. Mummy shape two mattress can’t really get a one bed when we want to lock them with straps. I didn’t know that before. 🙂 Therefore, I can recommend to have rectangular pad.
Our biggest problem with the mattress is noise. When I was alone I couldn’t understand but if you sleep two and one person wants to move the other person can wake up because of that. Also, in the wild camp where is so silent the nature now where we are. I don’t know maybe only this model like that.
You need to careful for made in as well. I bought mine from USA. We bought other mattress in Europe. Therefore, one is made in USA other one in Ireland. Of course same size and same company 🙂 The problem is their expansion different for the temperature. After bowl up them they are exactly the same size until 35 degrees. After that Ireland one is getting more expansion then USA one. If you are in a small tent you can have a little problem for it or when you use straps. So, if you buy more then one please check that they are made in the same country.
Thermarest Trekker (compack) Chair :
We have been living in a tent in our world journey by motorcycle. Sometimes we can’t go out from the tent because of the weather. Lay down or sit without any chair we could have back problem. We bought trekker chair to make our camping mattress get a chair. We are so happy for that. We didn’t use outside that much. We are going to wild camp and ground is not safe to put out our mattress because of sharp stones, needles, glass… etc.
Thermarest pump sack :
After ride many hours motorcycle or hiking we don’t want to give effort to bowl up our sleeping pad. Also, we don’t have space to carry something big for that. We saw the pump sack and bought it. Bowl mattress in 2 minutes, we like that. We haven’t tried yet but we read to pump back can be a chair as well.
We were looking a tent cheap and comfortable for our road trip by motorcycle and we found “De Aconga Osorno” tent which is Pauw Recreatie’s brand in Pauw Recreatie shopping.
De Aconga Osorno:
After started to our journey, we have started to live in a tent. We were looking for comfort first and put all our important stuff which is motorcycle gears, electronics…etc inside. We bought the tent July 2016 and could us e until July 2017. It was a 3 persons, three season tent that weight around 4 kg. We paid 100 Euro.
We used to the Pauw Recreatie’s tent a year. What is our opinion/review ups and downs about it :
It has two exits and one of them has a big storage area with a lot of space. Also, it has window to see outside easy. It is a little high which is good because we can sit easily inside and feeling like siting in a room. The tent is big therefore in the beginning it wasn’t so easy to open it alone but after a while we can manage to do this. (Inside is 190*200 cm, storage space is 95*95 cm) We used it in all circumstances on the sand, in the rain, with a wind storm. It is strong for that. When we were camping under 15 degrees we could feel cold. When it was so hot we just use inside tent. So, it is good to free standing.
When traveling by motorcycle the weight is important. Therefore it was a little heavy for bicycles or motorcycles. In 5 months, the zip problems started and they broke. We locked it one exit and keep continue other exit. Unfortunately, this one broke as well. Hooks are too thin when we used them on a hard ground they bend very fast. Also the sticks started to rust after 8 months. If the rain is so light it doesn’t mater how long rainy. But when the rain is heavy for 20-30 minutes it starts leaking.
After all these things, we didn’t keep continue with the tent. We will have a new tent soon. Maybe, you will think first that “It was less than in year, wasn’t it under the warranty?” This is a other story ;
We wrote the company all our review and ask them anything we can do? It is just eight months can be warranty or something. When we were in Nigeria they reply our email. They wanted our address to sent a new one. Actually, we got so happy for that. Second mail was saying it would arrive in 11 days. We asked to DHL number to track it. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get the truck number. Waited 2 weeks. Went to DHL office to ask. They couldn’t find anything with the name and wanted a track number. Nobody reply our emails again. And we leaved from Nigeria, till today the tent never arrived to Nigeria? We glued the zip, we used a foot print to protect ourself for rain and wind. We made it to South Africa. Here we bought a new tent from a different brand, hopefully we can use this one a lot longer.
First let me explain a little bit what the carnet de passage is. It’s simply said a passport for your motorcycle, when you enter African and Asian countries you have some option but you always need to import your vehicle, either you can do that with the Carnet de Passage or you can do this local, the costs are around 10 euro’s in most countries to import the vehicle, sometimes you need to go to the capital city to extend it. So for us it was just easier to travel with the Carnet de Passage. You cross a border and let the paper stamped and signed, done deal, no money to pay! When you leave the country they will stamp and sign it again.
In which countries you can use your Carnet de Passage?
I will try to keep this up-to-date as much as possible for the countries we are passing.
AFRICA
Morocco – No Carnet de Passage, free importation of your motorcycle. You fill in a paper at the border when you enter and you need to show that again when you leave the country.
Mauritania– No Carnet de passage, importation of the motorcycle costs 10 euro’s. They write the motorcycle details in your passport and write it out again when you leave the country.
Senegal– We used our Carnet de Passage. We choose to take a small border called Diama, they don’t stamp your Carnet de Passage here. You get a Pass Avant what costs 2500 cfa (4 euro) this is valid for 48 hours but when you enter on a Friday you get 96 hours because they don’t work in the weekends (we did this). You need to enter Dakar in the 48 hours what is about 300 km from the border to let your Carnet de Passage stamped at the custom office in the harbor GPS coordinates 14.672178, -17.425022.
The Gambia – Use Carnet the Passage. They sign and stamp it at the border and sign and stamp it out.
Guinea Bissau – We used our Carnet the Passage. They need a little help how to fill in the Carnet the Passage but they sign and stamp it when you enter. We entered from Ziguinchor. We left Guinea Bissau from a really small border (Contabane) where they signed and stamped Carnet de Passage out of the country.
Guinea Conakry– We used our Carnet the Passage. As we crossed into Guinea on a really small border they didn’t stamp or sign our Carnet the Passage (neither our passports). They told us they would do in Dabbis, but that’s wrong. You need to go to Boke (GPS coordinates 10.948341 ,-14.280779) The first officer tried to get 100.000 GNF (10 euro) each from us, we refused friendly then he told us he was going to get the chief and ask him. The chief came and signed our Carnet the Passage with a smile and no money asked. When leaving the country (Kouremale border) they stamped and signed our Carnet the Passage, asked what I have for them, first I just smiled, then he said he was hungry, I told him so am I, he asked again what do you have for me, I said a handshake. I shake his hand he smiled and give me our Carnet de Passage back.
Mali–We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Mali the same easy process.
Burkina Faso – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped it without a lot of questions. Nothing asked for. When leaving the country I needed to explain the guy about 3 times what the document was and what he needed to do. Eventually he stamped the document and I was satisfied.
Togo– We used our Carnet de Passage. I needed to explain what to do, but then it got stamped and signed easily. When leaving the country the same I needed to explain it but done easily.
Benin – We used our Carnet de Passage. They immediately recognized the Carnet de Passage and knew what to do. Only thing we needed was a copy of our passport I tried to do it without but he insisted of me getting the copies. When leaving the country through a small border I needed to explain what the paper was, but the guy was very friendly and signed with a big smile.
Nigeria – We used our Carnet de Passage. We crossed into Nigeria through a small border and I needed to explain what the document was for but then it got stamped and signed easily. When leaving the country they know what they needed to do.
Cameroon– We used our Carnet the Passage. They have a special office for the importation of your vehicle and they know what the Carnet the Passage is and stamp and sign it easily. When leaving the country they know what they needed to do.
Gabon – We used our Carnet the Passage. They have a special office for the importation of your vehicle and they know what the Carnet the Passage is and stamp and sign it easily. When leaving the country they know what they needed to do.
Congo (Brazzaville) – We used our Carnet the Passage. They have a special office for the importation of your vehicle and they know what the Carnet the Passage is and stamp and sign it easily. When leaving the country they know what they needed to do.
Congo (Kinshasa) DRC – We used our Carnet the Passage. They have a special office for the importation of your vehicle and they know what the Carnet the Passage is and stamp and sign it easily. When leaving the country they know what they needed to do.
Angola – They don’t accept the Carnet the Passage, see our border crossing and bribery Western Africa writing what to do with the importation and exportation of the vehicle.
Namibia – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Namibia the same easy process.
South Africa – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving South Africa to Lesotho we did not stamp out the Carnet de Passage as you come back 100% sure. When leaving to Swaziland we stamped out at Oshoek border, we had a lot of trouble with that as they say we are not a Carnet de Passage border we do not stamp them after a lot of talking they did stamp our Carnet de Passage but they where not happy about doing it.
Lesotho – We didn’t use our Carnet de Passage and no TIP (Temporary Importation Permit) either.
Swaziland – We didn’t use our Carnet de Passage and no TIP (Temporary Importation Permit) either.
Mozambique– We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Mozambique the same easy process.
Botswana– They don’t accept the Carnet the Passage, see our border and bribery Southern Africa writing what to do with the importation and exportation of the vehicle.
Zimbabwe – They don’t accept the Carnet the Passage, see our border and bribery Southern Africa writing what to do with the importation and exportation of the vehicle.
Zambia – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Zambia the same easy process.
Malawi – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Malawi the same easy process.
Tanzania – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Tanzania the same easy process.
Rwanda – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Rwanda the same easy process.
Uganda – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Uganda the same easy process.
Kenya – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Kenya the same easy process.
Ethiopia – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped after they know the road you will take in Ethiopia, also they will give you a paper with all your valuables on it otherwise they will not stamp your Carnet de Passage. When leaving Ethiopia they stamp after checking the other papers.
Sudan – We used our Carnet de Passage. They signed and stamped really easy nothing asked. When leaving Sudan we did it at the airport as well fly out of Sudan. You can check the article about how you can leave Sudan to Europe with motorcycle.
Our motorcycle experience has started in Europe. So, We didn’t know what we really need it. After travel 3.5 months in Europe We went to Turkey to get ready our motorcycles to Africa trip.
What did we change on Honda CRF 250L motorcycle? How much did we pay to modify our motorcycles?
Before keep continue to read you can check our video which is ”Getting Ready to Road Trip | Modification Motorcycle CRF 250”
Window: We had it in Turkey from “GP Kompozit“ and paid 45 Euro for two motorcycles in front screen.
Seat: It is one of the most important think if you want to ride everyday or many km. in a day. We changed seat in Turkey and paid 100 EURO for two CRF 250 L. We got it from “Motosay“
Tires: We made 20.000 km with original IRC tires. We were riding most of time on the asphalt in Europe. When we have changed to our road to Africa We started to look a new tires, which one is best for all roads. After all searched and told people who has experience for Africa We decided Heidenau K60. We bought in Holland and carried to Turkey and changed there. We paid 100 Euro for a pair of tires.
Inner tube:We will hit a lot of of road in Africa We knew that. And we don`t want to problem with out inner tubes. So, We bought ultra heavy-duty inner tubes and paid 40 Euro for a pair of them.
Motorcycle leg: Honda CRF 250L has a little problem with leg when you put bags. Of course motorcycle goes down and leg gets too long. Her father helped us to have big leg pad. We are so happy to have it now.
Hand Protection: We need to protect our clutch and breaks and of course our hands. We bought in a website and paid 30 Euro for each pair.
Side Metals: Side metals are so expensive in Europe. We traveled in Europe without side bags because she said that it is so cheap in Turkey. We bought side metals from “Aydin Kardesler“ and paid 50 Euro for each motorcycle.
USB Charger: It is working really well to charge your phone, Go-pro, camera…. But don`t buy Chinese’s one because break very quick on the road. We bought from Louis and paid 25 Euro.
Phone Keeper: We don`t have GPS. We used maps.me from phone to find our way. That`s why we bought a phone keeper in Turkey and paid 15 Euro.
We didn’t have that much stuff wit us in Europe trip. Because it was first motorcycle journey and we could find everything easily in Europe what we need.
We looked the motorcycle technic book and wrote some people who did world trip or Africa trip before. And of all search, we really had a long list what we need to carry necessary.
It is look like we will make approx. 40.000 km. in Africa. So, we calculated what we need on the road and how much we can carry on the motorcycle :
Two extra chains and a pair of chain sprockets for each motorcycles.
One rear break pad.
Six oil filters.
Two air filters.
Chain oil, cleaner and break cleaner. We never take enough because of space. Hopefully, we will find on the road.
Two spark plugs.
Extra front lamp
Extra fuses
One pair inner tube which our old inner tube.
11 lt. jerry can. CRF250L tank is only 7.7 liters.
Tire pomp.
Tire pressure.
Tire repair-kit.
Petrol tube (see through). Any case, if we need to get petrol from other vehicles. We have been using to put petrol in our stove from the tank with it.
WD40, duck tapes, glues, repair staff for tent, stove, shoes…. etc.
Extra screws and of course a lot of screw drivers J
We took 3 lt engine oil which wasn’t necessary. After that, we saw that it was good choose because we couldn’t find in Mauritania to change.
Chain lock, disk alarms and locks.
What we have been learning on the road we always like to share. You can find playlist to watch from our maintenance here :
You pass a bridge from Mauritania what costs 4.000 cfa (6,50 euro), you need to pay this in cfa or he will charge you 10 euro each! After that he opens the gate for you.
Passport – You hand over your passport, they give you a visa (stamp) upon arrival, no money or gift asked here.
Import vehicle – You get a Pass Avant at the other side of the Street this costs 2.500 cfa (4 euro). You get 48 hours to extend this in Dakar (of you go on Fridays you get 96 hours).
Bribery – Here we only got asked 10 euro fort he Pass Avant by one of the guys, don’t pay him just pay the guy at the desk the 2.500 cfa and you have no problems. And just don’t buy the insurance!!
Leaving Senegal
We left Senegal to The Gambia, we used the border crossing nearby Barra, no bribes asked and we got our smoothly.
The Gambia
We entered The Gambia at the Barra border.
Passport – All pretty smooth we got our visas and passport at the border for free, no money or gifts where asked.
We left Guinea Bissau on a really small border not used a lot by overlanders from Contabane.
Passport – Our passport got stamped out easy
Export vehicle – We used our Carnet the Passage.
Bribery – They asked what I have for them when we got write out of the country I told him a handshake, shake his hand and we both smiled and we where free to go.
Guinea Conakry
We used a really small border to enter Guinea from Contabane to Dabbis.
Passport – This was a problem, when we arrived at the border they told us they will stamp it in the next (bigger) village. Unfortunately they didn’t. They told us to go to Boke, the next city at the end of the road. We didn’t push anything and trusted them, our mistake! Push more at the first border crossing they need to stamp you in the country. Eventually we got into Boke riding around trying to find customs, this took a while but here are the GPS coordinates 10.930486, -14.291541 if you end up here as well to get your stamp in your passport. The chief here needed to call the minister of tourism who needed to give him permission to stamp us in the country. This all took a long time, we stayed a couple of hours waiting and waiting. The chief then wanted 100.000 GNF (10 euro) when he had the permission to stamp our passports as always we refused to pay and eventually he didn’t ask about it anymore. When we got our passports stamped and went back to our motorcycles his right hand came to us and asked us for a little money because he needed to use his mobile phone all the time, this time I gave him a little money because it is true he put in a lot of afford for us and made some phone calls, I gave him 10.000 GNF (1 euro).
Import Vehicle – We used our Carnet de Passage.
Vehicle insurance – ECOWAS insurance valid here.
Bribery – The chief asked us in Boke 100.000 GNF we refused and got away with it, only paid 10.000 GNF for his phone costs and because he put a lot of afford into it.
Leaving Guinea
We left Guinea from the Kouremale border to Mali.
Passport – We got our passports stamped out easy nothing asked for.
Export Vehicle – We used our Carnet de Passage.
Bribery – They only asked a gift when exporting the vehicle, I offered him a handshake and he excepted it.
*** You can watch our Guinea motorcycle trip adventure.
”Travel Guinea Conakry is trouble in protests time also no safe. Is true? :”
I will try to write from every country how the border crossing (and bribe )went and where they where asking for money or gifts.
Morocco
We entered Morocco with the ferry from Barcelona at Tangier Med. We arrived around 7 pm, you need to get your passport stamped at the ferry (this is for all ferries also from Gibraltar). When you leave the boat they check your passports and let you go to customs, this is where it all starts. When you arrive there it’s pretty crazy and crowded, there are some fixers walking around well willing to help you, but you can do this easily on your own.
Import vehicle – The papers are all writing in French, if you don’t know what it says just asked some other people traveling or officials what you need to fill in. They will help you so you don’t need to pay the fixers! You import your vehicle with a form you need to fill in, they sign and stamp it you need to keep this paper with you till you leave the country.
Passport – Like I said before you get your passport stamped at the ferry during the trip from Spain. After the importation of your vehicle they send you to a small office to fill in your details in the computer , after that your free to go!
Vehicle insurance – You need a green card insurance, we both had that from Europe. Nobody ever asked about our insurance papers, hers where expired when we left the country for a few days . But never any problems.
Bribery – No Money or gifts where asked, if you use the fixers they will ask you around 5 euro. Like I said you can do this easy without.
Leaving Morocco
This goes really smooth, they help you where you need to go, no Money or gifts asked.
Mauritania
We entered Mauritania at the coast line near Nouadhibou (I think this is the only border crossing you can take) You ride about 2 km through no-mansland this is a very bad road fort he last kilometre to get to the Mauritania border. after all stories we got a bit scared and used a fixer here. There is 1 guy well known for motorcyclists called Cheick, unfortunately he wasn’t there when we arrived. There showed a small guy called …. up and he seemed trustable, we agreed to pay 10 dollar for him, 17 dollar for 20 days insurance and 10 dollar custom fee for the motorcycle. The visa price is 55 euro’s and he would help us as well to get that fast. Unfortunately there was a whole rally there as well, about 50 Mercedes from Germany, they needed visas as well..
Passport – First you need the visa, make sure you have Euro’s with you for this or they give you a extremely bad exchange rate. The price is 55 euro, you need to go to s small office they take a photo and print your visa, only thing is they need internet for this and they don’t have that all time. It took us about 6 hours to get it, we heard stories people stayed 3 nights at the border to get there visa. Just before the last rope blocking the road they will scan your visa and your free to go.
Import vehicle – Our fixer did this for us, but I’m sure you can do this easily yourself! You need to have your motorcycle papers fill in a form they sign and stamp it, you pay 10 euro and that’s it.
Vehicle insurance – This is basically why we got our fixer, this supposed to be very hard to get and they work with the fixers. The solution is to get it in Nouadhibou. It’s nearby the camping Chez Ali des Levriers, we paid 17 dollar for 20 days at the border but here it will be cheaper. Nobody ever asked about our insurance in Mauritania
Bribery – We had our deal with the fixer at least we thought we had, after finishing all but he took us to a little cafe and said we needed to pay 200 dollars instead of the 80 dollars we agreed on before. Of course we where not willing to pay, here we ended in a long long long discussion, he showed his temperament and everything, luckily we met Cheick (the motorcycle fixer) before and he gave us his phone number, so we called him as he told us don’t pay more then this price. He argued with our fixer as well and agreed on the phone with him but turning his face to us he was going back to the 200 dollars. Again a long ‘fight’ followed, we had a big crowd around us who eventually all agreed with us (this was nice to see)! When darkness fall down she finally convinced him that we where right and he was wrong, he got his 80 dollars and we finally left the border. Be aware about this guy and don’t trust him!! Also this border crossing is doable without a fixer!
Leaving Mauritania
We left Mauritania from the Diama border, this is a small border near the coastline and is not that corrupt yet.. Don’t go to Rosso! First of all the road to the Diama border is fine to ride, you leave the highway Keur Machene where the road even gets much better. After Keur Machene it becomes a dirt-road but this is a good one and especially in the dry-season easy to ride.
Export vehicle – We entered the office and know they would ask for 10 euro’s each to sign our papers, of course we refused to pay this and we have been talking for about 30 to 40 minutes before he signed our papers for free and let us go.
Passport – They would do the same and try to ask for 10 euro each as well to sign, maybe he seen already we are not willing to pay, he signed our passports and give them to us and then softly asked for 10 euro each, we laugh at him and said no and left the office.
Bribery – Like I just said they will ask for 10 euro everywhere, just refuse play the game with them, don’t leave the office and keep talking. He has 2 books, one with all people who passed and 1 with all people who paid.. Ask to see the book and show him not everyone is paying this helps you as well. If you do pay because you have Money enough or you are in a rush please think about other travelers who don’t have the money to pay this bribes because their life get’s more hard like this. – The only thing what seems to be legit is the community fee of 500 um you need to pay at the border, the guy gives you a receipt.
We want to be on the road many years with our motorcycles. Therefore, we need take care of them very well. Also, it’s not easy to fine a lot of parts for the motorcycles in most West-African countries.
Tires:
We check tire pressure every 2 days. If we pass really bad road we check them to make sure we don’t have any needles, small rock or something stuck.
Chain and Sprockets:
We clean the chain every 1.500-2.000 km. At the same time we control in front sprocket to make sure.
We look how much tide our chains is 3 times a week.
We oil the chain every 200-500 km. It depends on the weather and road condition.
Fluid, Oil, etc.:
We don`t have anything routine time for that. They are in front of us. When we stop on the road she always turn around the motorcycles and looking break fluids, radiator and engine oil.
General Control :
Maybe the most important one is that we listen to our motorcycles when riding, if we hear anything different we try to figure out what it is. Apart from the every week or after a bad road bumpy, rocky, dusty, etc. we look almost all screws, breaks, engine. To see anything we lost or has damage.
Following Technical Book:
Also, we look to technical book when we need to change parts or what we need to control.
Looking Our Notes:
We have been writing notes when we changed something (engine oil, oil-air filter, sprockets, chain…etc.) on our motorcycles. So, we check our notes and motorcycle km to don’t miss anything.
What we have been learning on the road we always like to share. You can find playlist to watch from our maintenance here :
They have max.30 houses in the village and most of them family. They are living between huge trees. We saw some traditional houses. Tried to talk local people. We shared our cookies with kids and played with them. Kids didn’t see tourist around. Maybe one house has a television. So, in the beginning they didn’t want to get closed to us. You need to be patience and show how much you are friendly. It could help for me but not for Ferry. When they looked his eyes they could scare, maybe because of colorful eyes. Who is living in the village they were so friendly people.
GS
When traveling by motorcycle the weight is important. Therefore it was a little heavy for bicycles or motorcycles. In 5 months, the zip problems started and they broke. We locked it one exit and keep continue other exit. Unfortunately, this one broke as well. Hooks are too thin when we used them on a hard ground they bend very fast. Also the sticks started to rust after 8 months. If the rain is so light it doesn’t mater how long rainy. But when the rain is heavy for 20-30 minutes it starts leaking.
