One Road One World

Tag: West Africa

Motorcycle road trip | What spare parts to carry
We are on a motorcycle road trip to travel around the World. When we where preparing our motorcycle long distance trip we had a few questions in our mind one of them was what spare parts to carry with us during such a long road trip for our motorcycle.

When you decide to go on a road trip by motorcycle in Europe, USA or Australia you don’t need to think so much about what spare parts to carry on motorcycle to repair or for your routine control. But if you are in the nature and your motorcycle breaks down there is an option your phone is not working. At those moments small spare parts or tools can make your life very easy.

Also it can be more difficult to find spare parts of motorcycles in some countries. Believe us we have a lot of experience about it on our Africa trip, which was travel around Africa by motorcycle for two years, 50.000 km and 33 countries. Yes it was a long distance motorcycle road trip to Africa.

After all our experience on the road we can tell a lot about it so our advice will be to carry some parts with you on the road. We made a list what we carried or learned to carry (the hard way) with us.

What spare parts to carry with you on motorcycle for long distance trip?
- Inner tube
- Fork seals
- Wheel bearings
- Valve (extra for your inner tube)
- Oil filter
- Chain
- Set of sprockets
- Clutch cable
- Spark plug
- Fuses
- Break pads
- Clutch pedal
- Fuel pump
Motorcycle spare part oil filter change

These are mostly small parts and easy to carry, of course it depends on how long your trip will be. For example you can only carry a front inner tube as they can fit (for a while) in your rear wheel as well.

If you are visiting our website first time you don’t know which kind of motorcycle we choose for word trip and why? Both of us have been riding Honda CRF 250 L. When we started our motorcycle world trip I had no experience to ride motorcycle. She had a little motorcycle experience from 10 years ago but only how to ride motorcycle on a tar road.

Not many people travel long distance trip with 250 cc motorcycle therefore it wasn’t easy to learn what spare parts to carry with us specific for our Honda CRF 250L. After write some blogs and friends who travel some part of Africa by motorcycle we learned and decided what to do.

Doing maintenance on our motorcycle in Tanzania

What spare parts to carry for a Honda CRF 250L on a motorcycle road trip?

We wanted to travel around Africa. (West, South and East) So, we checked how many km we were going to ride in Africa. After a rough calculation we came to 40.000 km. We checked the technical book of Honda CRF 250L what is the routine maintenance. After that we took spare parts what is writing on the list.
- Two extra chains and a pair of chain sprockets for each motorcycles.
- Two rear break pads.
- Six oil filters.
- Two air filters.
- Two spark plugs (iridium).
- Extra two front lamp (not necessary to carry).
- Extra fuses
- One pair extra inner tube.
Motorcycle spare parts air filter change on the road

Unfortunately, it wasn’t enough what spare parts we carried for our Honda CRF 250L. Because in Nigeria, we didn’t know that a truck pushed me from the road and I entered a deep pothole. After that I had a problem with one of the fork seals, we ended waiting for it two weeks in Lagos, Nigeria it needed to come from South Africa.

Also, we didn’t know that we could have fuel quality problem in Sudan and our motorcycles could stop after buy petrol because of a fuel pump problem. We didn’t have a new fuel pump, luckily we could just clean it but it didn’t work well we changed them as soon as we had one. Fuel pump was okay but we stuck a while in Khartoum, Sudan.

You might think you are able to find most parts somewhere and sure you can for some of them in bigger cities, but do you want to wait 2 days in the middle of nowhere for a inner tube while you can carry 1 with you as well? We don’t want to either, I broke my valve in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC) in the middle of a village believe me I was very happy I could just put in a new one.

Flat tire in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC)

This crew surrounded us in just a few minutes of time, in 20 minutes we had a hundred people around us (all very friendly).

Broken valve Ultra heavy duty inner tube in the Democratic Republic Congo (DRC)

Another story is about our clutch pad problem. When we arrived in South Africa our Honda CRF 250L motorcycles were already 48.000 km. So, we knew that it can be problem with our clutch pad soon because we already ride 50.000 km on our motorcycle road trip. They have a Honda motorcycle service in South Africa but spare parts were really expensive, much more than in Turkey, nearly 50% more. Now we got lucky as her father was going to visit us in South Africa therefore he carried 2 sets clutch pads for us. 🙂 Her Honda CRF 250L’ s clutch pad we changed in Tanzania at 58.000 km, mine we changed in Ethiopia when my motorcycle made 65.000 km. We really don’t like to change parts when it’s not necessary so we just carry them with us if that’s possible.

Changing clutch pads Honda CRF 250L in Ethiopia

You can also check what spare part to change and which kind of maintenance we did in 70.000 km for our Honda CRF 250cc.

What we have been learning on the road we always like to share. You can find playlist to watch from our maintenance here :

FS
November 25, 2018
Angola is a beautiful country…

It was one of the country we scare about visa, at the same time We have a friend inside who can help us for visa to send invitation for Angola. Until Congo, which country we asked for Angola visa They said that we cant apply because we don’t have residence from the apply country. Finally we applied in Pointe-Noire, Congo and got it multiply entry for 30 days, which means every time when you enter Angola you have 30 days. So, we could go to Cabinda.

Life was so easy in Cabinda;

We wrote our friends that we got visa and going to Cabinda. Gisela sent us a address from one of their friend who has been living Cabinda. So, we started to write with Jorge in the border to ask about road, exchange… etc. We arrived at his address after dark. Our room was ready which is like five star rooms. We went dinner with Jorge and Arthur. Jorge was already bought a phone card for us as well. Next day we went to their Clinic and meet a lot of doctors, also ate breakfast and lunch. In the evening, we met in Arthur’s house to cook and drink, talk about life and a lot of fun. We also ride around Cabinda to see a little. People were so friendly and so much talkative.

I asked to Jorge what he knows about us. He just said that Antonio and Gisela called him and said, “Our good friend is coming. You need to take care of them.” It was enough for him to hear that. I must say that he did it very well. 😉 We were planning to stay one night and keep continue to DRC but we stayed 3 nights. They were asking to stay one night more but I know Gisela was waiting for us because we couldn’t see each other 9 years. She was one of my best friends from London; we met in the English course.

Enter Second Part of Angola

The border was crazy. We arrived to DRC border, which was so crowded. Soldiers were trying to keep the door that nobody pass it. We passed people and arrived in front. Of course people got angry but we passed it. After show our Angolan visa and motorcycles paper we entered Angola.
First night we stayed Hotel Perola, Nzeto because it was sunset. Next day we hit the road again to go Luanda and see Gisela and Antonio. It was amazing to see them 9 years later again. They got married and have two lovely kids. We didn’t know that Gisela already made a plan for us to discover Angola. After three days later she said we are going to Malanje to see waterfall and we have already a room there. I suppose that she doesn’t want to see us anymore because kick us from the house in 3 days 😉

Around Malanje is nice to see

We started to ride motorcycle in the morning and arrived to Malanje just before sunset. The road was tar but need to be careful wit potholes because you don’t know when you can hit them.

Museleje Waterfall, Angola

When we arrived to address where we stayed They were waiting for us. We had really nice room or like a little apartment. Next day morning, we went to Calandula waterful after that Museleje falls which was hard to find it but we went there. It is peaceful area and also nice for camping. When we were going to the fall we passed three villages, which are nice to see, and tried to talk a little with people. The view was nice; also road was fun to ride. After that we visit Black Rock than we turned back our room and next day we arrived to Luanda again.

Calandula Waterfall, Angola

Gisela and Antonio were waiting for us. We ride 480 km and we were tired. Our plan was sleep early but little boy Thomas who was only 11 months He decided to don’t sleep. We know that They were also tired and go to work next day. We said Antonio to gave us Thomas we can take care. 1 am, 2 am, 3 am no sleep. We almost faint in the sofa. he was just smiling and showing his toys to play. And than Gisela came to downstairs and she took Thomas who got sleep in a second in the mother’s arms 😉 Of course we woke up noon next day…

Black Rock, Angola

We stayed with then total 16 days. They showed us Luanda life and visited a lot of nice area around. But our visa was running out so we said bye bye our friends and started to ride thought Namibia.

Funny thing was that we planned to a nightclub. They asked about closed what we have. Of course we don’t have anything special with us just some t-shirts and outdoor pants. They decided that we can’t go to the nightclub and we need some clothes.

We went to their room to look for their clothes. Gisela and I, Antonio and Ferry wear same size, also for shoes as well 😉 We took what we want and got ready to the night…

Our plan was camping if we can;

First day we ride until sunset, stopped a lot for photos and enjoy with views. We found a nice spot camping and sleep well. Of course, we were sending message to Gisela where we were? She couldn’t wait our second day camping and said that we have already a room in Lobito because she had some phone calls;)

We arrived to Lobito and they showed our house which is so big and next to the sea. They said that we could stay how much we want it. We stayed two nights and enjoy the beach. We were leaving to Lobito and told to Gisela. She said that we have another house already in Lubango. They were waiting for us and we can stay again how much we want. Really!

Kubel River Gorge, Angola

If she didn’t make our life so easy in Angola We are not sure that we could stay 30 days. If you have USD or EURO with you can have crazy exchange rate on the black market but still expensive.

Lubango must to see in Angola;

We went to Lubango from Lobito in a day and took our house key (Gisela already called a places to we stay in a house) which one was amazing. We stayed 4 days there to see around. Lobito has amazing landscape. Worth to see around. We went to Tundavala to see around, little tracking and ride enjoy.

We also wanted to see some waterfall around but some of them dry or it was so hard to go even if with motorcycle.

We went to Leba Pass and passed twice 😉 before started to Leba Pass you need to pay like road tax but we don’t clue for the price look like they were writing a price what they want 🙁

We were in Angola 27 days already. So, it was time to leave. Lubango to the Namibia border was 300 km. And we love to stop everywhere to look around. Therefore, we already decided to we are not going to border same day. Before sunset we found a spot to wild camping and it was look like nothing around. 😉 Just 500 meters in front has a house but no way to see it. We stopped and wait a little to see anybody passing or not. Okay good nobody around, we can start to set up the tent we saw some women and kids behind to trees. They were watching us with very curios eyes. We shake our hands and said “Ola” They started to laugh and than went. In the night, we figure out that we were next to house. 😉

We woke up in the morning but nobody around us. If you have kids around You have no chance to have privacy because they love to look at you. We are so interest for them. We understood that the family didn’t allow to kids. We just left from the tent in 5 minutes the family came.

We were having breakfast. They saw us and didn’t come closed and disturb us. When we saw them we couldn’t eat anymore alone and shared what we have. We tired to talk a little; most we used again body language. They were so nice, friendly and also so shy. We had some cans, jams… etc. we decided to give them all. And than we went to road for pass the border. And all day we told about the family.

We really like Angola so much. It is beautiful country. At the same time, thank you so much our friends Gisela and Antonio who made our life so easy there. I hope that we will see each other again somewhere and This time, I wish not 9 years to wait for that again.

October 25, 2017
It was another adventure to pass from DRC!

Sometimes, we can check everything a hundred times when we are on the road to don’t have any problem. We wish that nothing happens but it always find you!

When we were Cabinda they told us please take a military fly to Luanda from Cabinda or take a boat to Soyo in Angola and follow the road from there. (More info just click and open new page) They can be good option but we want to pass from DRC. We already couldn’t go to Kinshasa. 🙁 Nice to see some village on the road and learn a little their behavior even if it’s only a 330 km ride in DRC. We asked all overlanders who met on the road and they already passed it about information. And we had the visa already.

Before start to read all details of DRC you can watch a short movie where we could make video about the journey;

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We arrived the DRC border and a police came us to help. They were so friendly and helpful more than what we were expecting. One soldier took our Carnet de Passage and showed a building where he was going to get a stamp for us. Another police came next to us and showed us where we need to go for passport stamp. I didn’t want to leave motorcycles alone there, wanted to stay. A police stayed with me if anything happened, the other police went with Ferry. And than we switched it 😉 They were screaming each other to hurry up for “we need to ride again motorcycles as soon as possible and arrive to a hotel before it gets dark” Of course we didn’t understand why we must ride until we get to the road. 😉 I suppose it took one hour to finish all paper works in the border. Any case, we exchanged a little money there as well.

We turned to the road and welcome to soft sand. I have no idea why we didn’t ask details about the road anybody; all info for no mud 😉 First 40 km we were so slow after that we arrived to more hard and easy road and followed to ride on gravel.

They blocked the road for tax which price are so different for tourist. We started to complain about it to don’t pay. General a motorcycle doesn’t pay anything on the road in West Africa. After 10 minutes negotiating they allowed us to pass without any payment. I suppose 50 km later we came another one and same conversation and no pay!

Border crossing, stuck soft sand… etc we knew that we can’t go to Boma to find a hotel. Actually, it wasn’t our dream to go wild camping as well. But I wrote in the beginning sometimes you wish for nothing happened and always something happens. 😉 It was coming dark and we couldn’t find any spot to hide. We really started to worried. Ferry saw a small road what looks like trucks working there to get out sand. We don’t think so they work in the night. We turn there to look and we found a spot just behind a hill and no track from any tires but very close to the road. We can hear everything from the road where people were walking. Must be so silent! We set up the tent and decided to don’t cook because of fire and smell. We slept well in the night. 😉 we collect everything very fast in the morning and followed our road.

The plan was to finish the road fast and don’t stop if it’s not necessary. We didn’t think people were dangerous but when we stop they can come to talk a second and started to say have food or money. DRC is really poor country and they don’t have enough food. We were trying to share something with them if not a lot of people around.

We were very close to Matadi very early. Really!

We just turn one of the main road and came a big village or city. Ferry said ” wait, something wrong. No! I have flat tire again.” Looks like we would have interesting story.

I saw a little place what has a lot tires in front. Let’s go there and try our luck. In the beginning, they said no but help us. Ferry started to work with the guy to get his tire out at the same time the village started to come around us as well. Ferry told me to careful with all our stuff because all his papers and electronics in bags, also money. Do you have any idea how I can do that? We have more than 70 people around and coming more. One group was around Ferry’s motorcycle other group around me. No option to look two motorcycles at the same time just I can keep my eyes there. We saw that people didn’t interest with bags or something else. They were only looking us, some girls touching my hair or hands, trying to talk. I suppose 10-15 min. later one man came who everybody showed respect to.

They said he is chief for the village. He was so helpful to ask what happened, we need more help, we are hungry, want to drink something… etc. and he saw the camera and said that take photo please. Wowwww, it is great to that 😉 They were like watching a live movie, I was making a movie from them. We were so different and interesting for them who behavior were so interesting and different for me as well. After 30 minutes later, we were ready to leave. We said bye everybody to hit the road again.

Of course, we were more comfortable because of the welcoming behavior. We arrived to Matadi around 2 pm. The traffic was so crazy there and so hot; also road is so bad inside to city. But the city view is really amazing. We looked some basic hotel and saw that the prices are crazy. It is still early, let’s go to Songolo and find a place there. Songolo is the border city to Angola. We bought some food and turned back to the road.

Our first break. We just stopped and started to eat something we saw a lot of kids were coming. Where we stopped must be close to a school. We wanted to wait to see their behavior and give some candies to them. We spent time with them a while and enjoy a lot. When I was wearing my bandana they started to scream “Ninja! Ninja!’ Pardon….. Ferry was laughing and saying to I can show something to them. Make kids happy is the best there is.

When we are on the road if we find something, which is so interesting for us we always forget about time and where we are. Yes, it was coming to sunset and we were too far from Songolo to arrive in the daytime. Again, we must look a spot to wild camping. That time, was so hard because no space to hide or no road to leave from the main road.

Water pumps were keep continue all the main road and every 5 km they have a little enter to check pumps, I guess. No option more, so we turned one of them. So hard to somebody see you from the road, should be fine. It was almost dark, we wanted to set up tent as soon as possible. I saw a shadow on the hill, yes looked like somebody was walking. Ferry already saw as well. No idea what we need to do because we saw his rifle. He is a soldier but look like a little drunk soldier. We tried to talk and explain why we were there. Show the sky to dark, show is to no hotel, show motorcycle too dangerous to ride, show tent to sleep there. He said okay and than leaved. Almost one hour later we saw a light where was coming must be soldier again. Yes he was now more drunk and more talkative even if we can’t speak same language. He wanted from us cigarette and than leaved again. We slept a little early because of tired and wake up early.

Middle of the night, a big light was coming close to the tent so I wake up. It was a car. They didn’t stop, just went slow down and then followed to the road. I was thinking we were fine, don’t wake up to Ferry. I saw the car which went to the up hill and stopped there. I was hearing, they were talking. I suppose with the soldier who saw us there before. 20 minutes later, the car turn back and that time stopped in front of the tent to see us. I pushed to Ferry to wake up and I opened the zip so they can see me and talk. Ferry was telling me “Close to zip, mosquitos are coming in!” Really honey, I suppose you didn’t wake up. 😉

4-5 soldiers in the car and one of them must be a commander. They were look like angry until saw a woman. I suppose to be a woman on the road most of time advantage. We tried to explain same what we said the first soldier. He just said that please leave early. Don’t worry, we will….

6.30 am, just alarm ringed, the soldier was screaming “Bonjour, bonjour…” means really wake up time, I suppose. We waved hands and started to collect and get ready. 6.45 am, another man was walking. He got really surprise when saw us there. I guess he couldn’t find a word to say therefore he went. When he turned back we understood why everybody told us to leave early or so serious to check area.

We opened to the tent next to water pipes which goes all the way to Kinshasa. They have one rule: if you get close to the water pipe and any soldier see you there no question why you are there. You are going to prison. And we are there! They were telling us to leave soon because big boss searching around in the morning. If he sees us he can’t be so polite and we can go to a prison. Yes, we leaved as soon as possible. And we need to say all soldiers who saw us and allow to stay there. Thank you!

We ride to the border of Angola and leave the country…

GS

October 24, 2017
I wish we could stay more in Congo, Brazzaville

Any route plan didn’t work in Congo for us. Everything can change so fast in West Africa and we need to follow new rules and don’t be there in rain season by motorcycles.

Where we read or listened a story about Ndende, Gabon to Dolisie, Congo road, which is 280 km off-road dirt road or mud, just a nightmare. If it has rain you can stuck the road and no option to finish in a day. We need to pass to keep continue on Western Africa journey.

Before start to read all details of Congo you can watch a short movie where we could make video fun part of the road journey;

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We stayed a night in Ndende, Gabon and we bought a lot of food and water if we need to spend the night on the road. Our friend Nicholas passed to the road 10 days before us, he stuck there by motorcycle because of mud. 5 days before us, Kevin and Emma passed to the road to less mud with their 4X4. And last five days there was no rain so; we were thinking that Ndende to Dolisie should be ok for us.

First thing in the morning we needed to get our exit stamp from Gabon, we went to the office at 7:30 but nobody was there, we waited half an hour for the guy and got the stamp. Here we meet another rider, Alex from Spain. After a small talk we needed to say goodbye as we had a long day ahead. The Congo border is 50 km far from Ndende. First there is 2 km tar road and than when you see the Congo sign the dirt road starts 😉 When we started everything was fine. We arrived to the Gabon border and got our Carnet stamped and keep continue. After a couple of km. later started to mud. What do you think what happened? I lost to control and fell down 😉 Actually my motorcycle fell down I didn’t but it was a little hard to lift it up because the mud is so slippery.

We arrived to the Congo border, they were so helpful and happy to see tourist. Procedures were slow therefore it took 1.5 hours. It was coming 2 pm and we understood that no option to finish 280 km for us. We just wanted to ride 3 hours more and look for a spot to wild camping before it gets dark. We could manage only 70 km more and started to look a place. In the road we saw a lot of small village but we didn’t sure which one is so friendly and which one is not. Because when we were passing villages some of them was waving hand and so happy to saw us but some of them was just screaming and running behind. We don’t speak same language so, we can’t understand what they say and couldn’t be sure that say good or bad things. It was a decision to go a village and ask a permission to stay there from chief or find a place, hide our self and set up the tent.

We found very small road and leaved from the main road. Just 100 meters and we were behind to bushes where nobody can see you. We don’t make a lot of sound because the spot was just a few hundred meters far from another village. We waited a little to make sure the spot is safe after that we set up the tent and started to cook. The road is bad that’s why no car is passing in the night or it’s so much dark and nobody walking on the road. We just listened the village that kids where playing around and people were singing and drinking.

Next day, we woke up very early to hit the road again. We just went a few km and saw big trucks were working on the road to close a huge pothole. We waited a while and that they allowed to pass us. First a local motorcycle went, nice to see how they were passing after that Ferry passed. It was my time but I didn’t ride 🙁 all workers stopped and got a cigarette to watch how a woman can do that. They were talking and laughing. Just they were giving stress. I said Ferry to ride my motorcycle as well. It wasn’t good feeling for me the behavior.:(

The road was sometimes good or bad. We were just riding and focusing to finish the road. But we need to eat as well. 😉 Also, it’s nice to get rest for a while. We were saying “no rain, perfect” but the sun was burning. Did we complain that moment? Of course not just said “More sun more sun, no problem to burn, just dry mud!”

It was 2 pm and we saw tar road started which means we managed it in 1,5 days to 280 km Ndende-Dolisie road. 😉

The plan was go to Dolisie and apply to Angola visa. It was a dream to the plan works! We connected with our friend James who tried to apply in Dolisie, he only made it to the front gate and got send away from there. He was told to go to Point Noire. It was afternoon and Point Noire is just 170 km far from here, it’s a brand new tar road so let’s go there! We arrived there around 6 pm and went a basic hostel what is close to Angola embassy. It was Monday. You can apply a visa only on Tuesday or Thursday. Perfect time, right! 😉

We applied next days and we saw Kevin and Emma are still there. Also, James and Alex were there. If you have only one place to apply Angola visa you can see all overlanders there who you met on the road before. It was nice to spent time together. Luckily we took the visa in 48 hours. Some of them waited 72 hours some of them a week. Depends on your behavior and how much you can speak French as they are not helpful at all, I guess they liked our smiles and behavior.

We spent a little more time in Point-Noire to relax and went for a ride around the city to see some places, the country is beautiful and as we didn’t ride a lot through Congo we went north on the coast line to see something from the nature, we did just a day trip but it was really worth it. Also we went out for dinner at the beach in Point Noire, here we ordered the biggest pizza ever 🙂

Our Angola visa was 30 days and multiplies entry. 😉 We started to discuss which road we would take it. We wanted to go Brazzaville from Dolisie but we are in Point-Noire, which is 500 km from Brazzaville and also just 30 km from Cabinda, Angola border. If we go to Brazzaville we want to pass Kinshasa, DRC by boat and than go to Angola. But the boat is another terrible story. DRC border looks you visa where you get it. They want to see the visa is coming from your home country. If it doesn’t they sent you back to Congo. (Other way around more okay, which is DRC to Congo.) So, if we can’t pass Kinshasa we have to turn back to here again. We didn’t want to get risk as everything is chancing so fast here. Also, we read news about Ebola north-east of DRC. After talk a little our decision was so clear to go to Cabinda and read more news about DRC.

On Sunday morning, we decided to pass Cabinda with Kevin and Emma. It is just 30 km to the border but we made 10 km in two hours. It was no way to leave from Point-Noire. We didn’t know that Congo has a election very soon and the president was coming here on Sunday. 😉 You can imagine that all roads were close. We waited in a gas station next to the military for a couple hours. After that we could go to the border…

Do you have any idea how much your t-shirt can be dirty in 12 hours on Ndende-Dolisie road? 🙂GS

August 21, 2017
Old Capital City Bolama and Guinea Bissau

‘Living amazing people out there. Maybe they don’t have money but they have gorgeous heart. They are so much welcome people we never see before.’

Very short video from the village before start to read about Guinea Bissau journey;

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We decided last minute to go to Guinea Bissau. In the beginning we wanted to go Valera. They said it really nice place. We stayed 4-5 days in Casamace region, Senegal. They are similar. Therefore We ride directly to capital city, Bissau. After search a little we wanted to go Bolama but we couldn’t find that much info to where we can stay and what we can do. We took our camping stuff and some food with us. We leaved motorcycle in Bissau. We wanted to use local transportation and see more things.

We went to port of Bissau to some info about Bolama canoe. You have to option to go Bolama. First option; they have direct canoe to the island on Tuesday and turn back on Friday. We paid 5.000 CFA for it both of us. Other option is go to Enxude by ferry and than take a truck to Sao Joao. After that take a little canoe to Bolama.

We went to the canoe Tuesday morning. One soldier and another man came. He started to read our names and the soldier gave us life jacket and made sure tied. Most Local people don’t know how they can swim. If it is so wave people can drop down to the sea and die. After a big accident they started to do that.

They carry everything in the canoe that is so big and so deep. All stuff and people go in but most people sit around the canoe. 3 hours journey and to WC. They were selling some drinks and cookies. They were talking, laughing, eating and helping each other and also trying to talk with us. They can speak Portuguese and I can speak a little Spanish. Of course, they were so curios because we were the only tourists in the canoe. J When I was talking with Ferry to what we will do there one person started to English who name is Sana. We were surprise. He said that He went to Spain 16 years ago and couldn’t come back again to visit his family until now. After told a while He invited us to his village.

We arrived to Bolama but we didn’t sure that we should go with him or look a place. When we looked around we figure out very fast that not easy to find a spot to wild camping or a hotel stay in. At the same time we know some kind of guesthouse They have. If we ask we could find it. At this moment Sana came next to us and said that lets go! Ok, Lets go, we can camp next to village and if we don’t like we can turn back. When we were walking together he was showing us old Portuguese houses and explain what they were. He was also talking almost every body on the road.

When we arrived to the village He explain something about us who we are and why we want to see Bolama. (They were so much welcome. I just want to give a tip: we are calling it a village but they are big family. Grandmother and father went there made a house. After that their kids got married and most of them stayed there and have family. Therefore in the village everybody knows each other. They are brother, sister, cousin, brother-law…etc. Most village stories is same in West Africa. ) They were talking each other where we can stay. We said that we have our tent with us So, we can open the tent anywhere. They really got upset for that. Sana’s middle brother who is a Portuguese teacher, He said please stayed with us. They gave a room and room key.

Everybody was coming to the home to say hello and welcome to their village. We asked to WC where we can go. Nobody wanted to talk. We already know that African toilets so, we needed only privacy. They said sorry and show a place, which is around close, and they have a hole in the ground. We just smile and said thank you. We saw their face was already getting relaxed.

They decided cut a chicken for us to dinner for welcome. We already so much appreciate what were doing. Just we can eat what they will eat. But no way! This is for guest and we are guests. They cooked it and put all of them in our room. What was going on? Sana said that all for guests just to say welcome. We wanted to eat together how they are eating everyday. Finally, They were agreeing with us. Sat to the ground with your hand. It was amazing feeling to do that.

Next day morning, we woke up 5 am to see fisherman coming home, Sana’s brother include with all fresh fish.

Sana introduced us them. After that they wanted to give us some fish to welcome. They are unbelievable friendly people. We waited them to see how they collect fishnet.

We started to walk back to the village. First we went to see cashew. We never had seen before. They showed us cashew fruits and how we can eat it.

Also when we went to village they cooked cashew for us. Normally, I don’t like cashew but I understood fresh one is so nice. 🙂

We were so tired. So, we wanted to get rest. We didn’t close to door If they need something They can take easily. I suppose that we faint in the bed. We didn’t hear any noise when we were sleeping. When we woke up we saw a lot of food on the table. Almost how many house they have in the village they cooked something for us. I tried to keep tears on my eyes. They don’t have money but they have a heart, which you never compare with money or something else. All was fish and rice. But it didn’t important. What they were doing it was incredible. How could we eat all? We said Sana to wanted to share everybody. He said first we needed to eat a little from each pan after that we could share because all food came for to say welcome.

Afternoon we walked around the island a little more. Went to some markets. We wanted to buy something for house. You can’t be surprise the answer: No! If we need something they can buy or cook for us. Ok, can we buy something for kids? We like the answer: Yes! We bought a lot of cookies, candies and gave to Sana. We didn’t want to call kids in front of us and give it. Sana distributed kids in the village. We didn’t know that he said from us because kids came to us and said thank you.

The weather was so hot. Therefore in the afternoon chill out time for them. Ferry went with the man to sit under the big mango trees.

I went to a house with woman. Good thing is body language works very well. 🙂

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In the village, only one house has television and generator. It was a football match on the TV. A lot of people came to the house to watch.

Also people were coming in the night to charge their phone. All kids were playing in front of the house because they have light only here.

We stayed there two nights. When we were leaving we were thinking totally different about life and culture. It was amazing to know that we have people like that in the world somewhere. They walked with us until begin of the village and said bye to us.

It was Thursday. So, we didn’t have direct canoe to Bissau. We wanted to take long road to see more things around. We went to the port of Bolama and waited a little canoe to pass Sao Joao. If the canoe has enough people they can leave at the same time. We paid 700 CFA to two. We asked how we could go to Enxude. They told us that a truck is coming to pick up people soon. We wait 10 minutes and the truck show up. Which is 1.000 CFA each. In the beginning it was ok because less people. We need to go 30 kilometers which is almost 2,5 hours. The road was really bad and they have a lot of little village or houses on the road. They wanted to get on the truck because only one truck was going to Enxude to catch the boat for Bissau. The truck could take maximum 20 people but almost 30 people and some of them were trying to stand. Also has a lot of stuff. It was so hard journey for us. But it was amazing experience to see people behavior. The truck was full and more people wanted to go on. They were helping each other to carry stuff or kids. Who was standing they were trying to give more space for them and keeping their hand to didn’t fall down.

Travel west africa with backpack

We arrived to Enxude 15 minutes earlier than the ferry. Actually, we were thinking that other canoe was coming like Bolama canoe. It wasn’t. It is a big ferry which you can carry your motorcycle as well. Unfortunately, you can’t do that because the tide is too much. Sea level is so low in Bissau and Ferry arriving or living next to other ferry. Therefore you need to carry your motorcycle ferry to ferry in Bissau. One way ticket is 1.500 CFA for a person.

After all day trip, we turned back to Bissau. We were so tired. We just took 5 minutes canoe, 30 kilometers truck journey and 2 hours ferry. 🙂 We got rest in Bissau one day more and than leaved from Bissau to Guinea Conakry. And we choose a road, which is a big challenge.

Would you like to watch all Bolama, Guniea Bissau experience in the video?

FS-GS

April 1, 2017
Senegal and Casamance Region

We went St. Louis first and stayed Zebra bar for stay a couple of days. We went to old colonial area which is pretty nice to see.

St Louis old city center

After that we ride to Lake Rose. But we couldn’t lucky to see the lake color is rose. We arrived there in the night and live noon. The color comes with reflection from salt and sun. So good time is afternoon.

Lake Rose, Senegal

Next stop was Dakar. We went there to apply some visas, shopping and see the city. The traffic is crazy in the week time but highway is good option to enter the city. First we wanted to walk around but after a while we couldn’t. It was so hot, asphalt was burning, we were feeling easily from our feet. 🙁 You can use taxi there but need to barging. We tried some local minibus which can chance their road easily and can say this is last stop. Some local markets are really nice. But the city didn’t so special for us. Goree island one of the most attraction for tourist in Dakar. We went there asw ell to see island and museum.

Goree Island, Dakar, Senegal

We were planning to travel all Casamance regions in Senegal in the beginning but everything can change last minute on the road. We went to south/west of Casamance.

We ride motorcycle Ziguinchor to Nikine. Went to some little villages and stayed in Elinkine Camp, Elinkine.

People are so curios and friendly on the region. When you stop to take a photo or break time. They can stop next to us and talk. Or ask about something wrong on our motorcycle or with us.

Bouyouye :

We like the little village, Bouyouye. They were surprise when we arrived to the village. They asked us ‘ what are we doing here? The road doesn’t going anywhere.’ We told them just we ride here to see village. After a little talk they said welcome and we can enter the village.

They have max.30 houses in the village and most of them family. They are living between huge trees. We saw some traditional houses. Tried to talk local people. We shared our cookies with kids and played with them. Kids didn’t see tourist around. Maybe one house has a television. So, in the beginning they didn’t want to get closed to us. You need to be patience and show how much you are friendly. It could help for me but not for Ferry. When they looked his eyes they could scare, maybe because of colorful eyes. Who is living in the village they were so friendly people.

Elinkine :

Elinkine is one of the best places in Casamance region to stay. Where the camp is like a paradise. You can go to boat trip to see crocodile and beautiful landscape.

Casamance Region, Senegal

It is a small village. If you are walking around everyday and staying long they know you after two days later. Kids have been learning English in the school and so curios to talk with you. We were helping them to improve their English a little how much we know.

2-3 days later, I told with kids and I wanted to go to the school for see and learn something more about education. When I went to school first we found to English teacher to communicate because I cant speak French. He was in the lesson. We told a little with him and kids in the lesson. After that, we went to the school manager for permission to enter all lessons. I went math class. They learn different way than us how we learn math.

The weather is so hot. Therefore, They go to school in the morning until 11-12 pm. After that go back 4pm. They have standard uniform. Classrooms are sandy and they don’t have a real sit. Maybe they don’t have money to buy uniform, notebooks…etc. They want to go to school and learn which is really perfect.

Sunset in Elinkine

April 1, 2017